It's almost 10:30 p.m. here in Florence, and I'm stuffed.
Today we ventured out around 11:00 a.m. and walked over to Santa Maria Novella to visit the Officina Farmacia, where wonderful cosmetics and natural remedies are compounded in the same manner and using the same materials that were developed by the monks and have been used for centuries. It's a beautiful small shop that smells absolutely divine. How many such places are worthy of photographs? We took some, smelled a few things, and bought a little.
After returning to the hotel to drop off our purchases, we decided to make our final trip to the Uffizi. Bill has advised us from the beginning of our pilgrimage that the Uffizi is most satisfying when taken in small sips rather than big gulps. We chose three artists, Raphael, Titian, and Caravaggio. What a pleasure to really study the paintings, trying to "read" them as Bill has shown us. We loved the Titians most of all.
Looking for just a little snack for lunch, we popped into the Da Vinci museum. This exhibit contains models built from Da Vinci's drawings, and they are truly amazing. For a mere eight euro, we got a slice of pizza, a drink and an admission ticket. We spent a lovely half hour browsing the machines, marveling at the genius of Leonardo. I'm thinking he was an alien among us. In addition to writing up his ideas in script that read from left to right, he dreamt of things that he couldn't possibly have anticipated: helicopters, tanks, automobile differential systems, and some truly wicked weapons of war.
At 3:30, we met our group back at the hotel, ordered two taxis, and set off to the lovely mountain village of Fiesole. High atop the city, Fiesole is very, very old. It contains some truly fascinating Etruscan and Roman ruins. We browsed the archaeological museum and marveled at the ancient finds preserved there. I cannot imagine the reaction of the scientists who found the first of these tombs. There are actually small drinking glasses that are intact, some of them buried with their owners 2,000 years ago. The excitement must have been overwhelming!
After a small break for caffee latte in the tiny shaded bar, we ventured up a very, very steep hilly street that wound around into another very, very steep hilly street and found our restaurant. Our reservation was for 7:00 p.m., and we were seated right on the dot. Since we are in Italy, we were the first patrons to arrive. We old Americans dine very early in the evening by Italian standards. (By the time we left around 9:00 p.m., the place was full!) We had a very beautiful and delicious meal, probably the most elaborate one yet, complete with aperitivo and bruschetta offered at no charge by the house, followed by antipasto and our main courses. Some of the braver among us had dessert. Then we had to get ourselves back down that hilly street and into our cabs to return to our hotel.Probably a good thing - we certainly needed a little exercise after all of that lovely food.
As I sit in the small bar here at the Hotel Casci, I can hear the sounds of the street outside the open windows. A light breeze is blowing, and there are large groups of young people walking below. It's Saturday night. World Cup Soccer is on the TV, and all eyes are on the screen. I'm tired - and stuffed! To bed. Tomorrow, the Pitti Palace, the Boboli Gardens, and the Palazzo Vecchio.
Saturday, June 21, 2014
Friday, June 20, 2014
We're are so comfortable here, and . . . .
This morning Bill delivered his last lecture to us. He spoke of sculpture and the color green. We were to visit the Bargello this afternoon, and it's been his practice all week to prepare us for what we will see in our wanderings.
Class was cut a bit short in order to give us time to visit places we haven't made it to quite yet. Mike and I feasted on salami, cheese, bread, and chips in our room, then set out for the San Marco monastery. It is fascinating. Each monk's cell has its own fresco. The cell reserved for Cosimo Medici (who certainly wasn't a monk, but often came to San Marco for a retreat) is, by the standards of monks, quite elaborate. He had his own chapel!
This beautifully preserved building is home to a display that outlnes the procedure used by the monks to create illuminated manuscripts. Also on display are examples of the books they created. But most compelling is the cell of Savaronola. It contains a painting, a bust, and several of the vestments of the monk. Famous for creating the Bonfire of the Vanities before the people turned against him, Savaronola was burned in the Piazza della Signoria, his remains gathered and burned again, then gathered and burned a third time. The ashes were thrown into the Arno. Needless to say, there is no relic available should anyone wish to commemorate Savaronola!
We walked from the Piazza di San Marco down to the Piazza della Signoria to meet Bill and the group at the Loggia del Lanzi. This vaulted space is home to beautiful Roman sculptures and others that are very familiar: Perseus with the (bloody, severed) head of Medusa; the Rape of the Sabine Women; Hercules slaying the Centaur. Then we went a few blocks down the street to the Bargello, which is Florence's primary sculpture museum. Home to works by Michelangelo, Donatello, and many others, it is simply overwhelming. One could spend days in this beautiful building. Perfectly curated and loaded with information (in English - yay!), this museum is an absolute don't-miss. My favorite is the young Michelangelo's statute of the young David, who looks like a triumphant teenager, ready to brag to his friends!
At this point in the day, I needed a little pick-me-up; in fact, I needed someone to pick me up and carry me! So a small group of us went to a local department store which features a rooftop cafe with a most glorious view. I had a caffee latte, which delivered the necessary jolt, then we journeyed on.
We strolled to the mercato nuovo and shopped for a bit, then wandered back to the Piazza di Repubblica, where a young woman was singing and the carousel was full of children. Making our way to the Duomo, we passed a procession of Hare Krishnas, and followed a bride and groom to the front steps of the church.
Mike, Carolyn and I simply stood there and soaked it in. The sun on the Campanile and the dome of the church, the blue sky, the cool breeze, the throngs of tourists, the street vendors, the pigeons - how can we bear to leave this magical place?
We are so comfortable here now, after having been here over a week - and we have so few days remaining. We are heading out to dinner tonight to one of our favorite spots, then to bed! Tomorrow will be another beautiful day in Firenze.
Class was cut a bit short in order to give us time to visit places we haven't made it to quite yet. Mike and I feasted on salami, cheese, bread, and chips in our room, then set out for the San Marco monastery. It is fascinating. Each monk's cell has its own fresco. The cell reserved for Cosimo Medici (who certainly wasn't a monk, but often came to San Marco for a retreat) is, by the standards of monks, quite elaborate. He had his own chapel!
This beautifully preserved building is home to a display that outlnes the procedure used by the monks to create illuminated manuscripts. Also on display are examples of the books they created. But most compelling is the cell of Savaronola. It contains a painting, a bust, and several of the vestments of the monk. Famous for creating the Bonfire of the Vanities before the people turned against him, Savaronola was burned in the Piazza della Signoria, his remains gathered and burned again, then gathered and burned a third time. The ashes were thrown into the Arno. Needless to say, there is no relic available should anyone wish to commemorate Savaronola!
We walked from the Piazza di San Marco down to the Piazza della Signoria to meet Bill and the group at the Loggia del Lanzi. This vaulted space is home to beautiful Roman sculptures and others that are very familiar: Perseus with the (bloody, severed) head of Medusa; the Rape of the Sabine Women; Hercules slaying the Centaur. Then we went a few blocks down the street to the Bargello, which is Florence's primary sculpture museum. Home to works by Michelangelo, Donatello, and many others, it is simply overwhelming. One could spend days in this beautiful building. Perfectly curated and loaded with information (in English - yay!), this museum is an absolute don't-miss. My favorite is the young Michelangelo's statute of the young David, who looks like a triumphant teenager, ready to brag to his friends!
At this point in the day, I needed a little pick-me-up; in fact, I needed someone to pick me up and carry me! So a small group of us went to a local department store which features a rooftop cafe with a most glorious view. I had a caffee latte, which delivered the necessary jolt, then we journeyed on.
We strolled to the mercato nuovo and shopped for a bit, then wandered back to the Piazza di Repubblica, where a young woman was singing and the carousel was full of children. Making our way to the Duomo, we passed a procession of Hare Krishnas, and followed a bride and groom to the front steps of the church.
Mike, Carolyn and I simply stood there and soaked it in. The sun on the Campanile and the dome of the church, the blue sky, the cool breeze, the throngs of tourists, the street vendors, the pigeons - how can we bear to leave this magical place?
We are so comfortable here now, after having been here over a week - and we have so few days remaining. We are heading out to dinner tonight to one of our favorite spots, then to bed! Tomorrow will be another beautiful day in Firenze.
Thursday, June 19, 2014
Siena and San Gimignano
Today we're back on the bus, headed for Siena. We've been looking forward to this trip, as Siena is a town frozen in time. Devastated by the Plague, the city fathers were unable to continue their ambitious long-range plans, which was pretty awful for Siena, but gives our group of pilgrims an opportunity to see more of the medieval art and architecture which Florence replaced with the beautiful creations of the Renaissance, for the most part.
We walk along a section of Siena's city wall. It looks as old as any structure we've encountered. It seems to undulate. Constructed of plain bricks, it may be impregnable - and certainly is on track to last another 900 years, at least.
We move into the city itself and walk to the Piazza Pubblica, which is sometimes called the most beautiful piazza in Italy - many feel it might be the most beautiful in the world. The piazza slopes in a gentle bowl shape down to the Palazzo Pubblica, which served Siena as its primary muncipal building. Around the edges of the rim of the bowl are ristorantes and trattorias and a gelato shop that bills itself as having the best ice cream in the world. One of our group was compelled to sample the gelato. She agreed that it was pretty good, but isn't sure that it holds the world record!
This piazza is home to a famous horse race, the Palio, in which an enormous crowd gathers in the bottom of the bowl and the horses race around the rim. We understand that it's an extremely dangerous race for the horses, and many of them are seriously injured running on the ancient bricks. At other times, the people of Siena treat the piazza much the way Floridians approach the beaches. They sit and sun and chat and simply pass the time.
Inside the Palazzo Pubblica we view the frescoes that depict Good Government and Bad Government. These were quite revolutionary in their day as they are based on the idea that man can have direct input into the quality of his life simply by operating in a peaceful, communal way. Even though the Sienese were devout Christians, they accepted the idea that they could control their lives in a way that communities had never attempted before. The frescoes are remarkable.
For lunch we grab a slice of pizza and a bottle of water and eat and drink as we continue exploring the town. We visit the Duomo, which is famous for its patterned floors, its striped columns and its frescoed ceilings. And on the way back to our bus, we stop in at the Basilica of St. Catherine. The patron saint of Italy, St. Catherine is credited with returning the papacy to Rome from Avignon. Her basilica contains her head, inside a box. Inside another box is one of her fingers. I intend to spend some time on line when I get home - this definitely calls for more research! Since she has been dead since the 14th century, the appearance of her face, complete with rosy skin and beautiful eyes, seems pretty incredible. The finger, on the other hand, is dried and wizened. It's definitely a finger, though, complete with fingernail.
Back on our bus, we head for the beautiful mountain town of San Gimignano. San Gimignano once boasted over 70 towers, built successively higher by competing wealthy families. Fourteen of these are still standing, and the view from the base of the mountain is amazing. As we climb the very, very steep streets we catch glimpses of some of the towers. In the main piazza we turn slowly and count - seven towers visible.
This is a wonderful shopping town. We find a pink shirt for our granddaughter; a lovely framed piece of local art for ourselves, one which depicts the towers of San Gimignano; and finally buy a bottle of the lovely fruity white wine for which the region is famous. It's made with the vernaccia grape. We are finally beginning a little shopping and are thoroughly enjoying this wonderful mountain day.
As we ride back to Florence, admiring the skill of our intrepid driver, Marco, the conversation ebbs and flows around us. We hear discussions about what we've seen, what kinds of OLLI classes we'd like to see as a result of our experiences here, what museums we still must visit before we leave next week, what gifts we've bought for whom. Packages of chocolate biscotti, bags of sweet licorice, small packs of cookies, candied peanuts make their way up and down the aisle. We share what we have bought. We are pilgrims, and friends.
Back in Firenze, we ask Pierpaulo, the concierge, to make a reservation at a restaurant that he loves. Eight of us venture out; we have decided that we will order bistecca this evening. The giant T-bone steaks were recommended highly by our Italian language teacher, Fabrizio. Mike and I split a spinach pie for antipasto, then split the single steak. The bone is enormous - think Fred Flintstone and dinosaur steak. The spinach is divine, very similar to a spinach souffle. The steak has a flavor we've never tasted and is delicious. Along with a couple of pitchers of house Chianti and some fizzy water, we have a feast. Oh, and the Tuscan bread, which is unsalted and has become an acquired taste.
After a couple of hours talking and laughing with these lovely friends, we stroll back to the hotel. We resist the temptation to stop for gelato, but come back and uncork the wine we bought today. And here we sit, in the friendly bar at our hotel, chatting and sipping. I work on the blog and Mike checks the email for messages from the offspring; others plan their weekend trip to Rome, and our friendly hotelier watches over us all. Outside the open window (did I mention there are NO bugs?) we can hear the traffic passing. The breeze is lovely. Tomorrow we visit the Bargello, probably return to the Ufizzi, and maybe visit the church of San Marco to view the cell of Savonarola. We'll have another wonderful breakfast, a quick lunch sandwich, and another fabulous dinner. We wish we had another week.
We walk along a section of Siena's city wall. It looks as old as any structure we've encountered. It seems to undulate. Constructed of plain bricks, it may be impregnable - and certainly is on track to last another 900 years, at least.
We move into the city itself and walk to the Piazza Pubblica, which is sometimes called the most beautiful piazza in Italy - many feel it might be the most beautiful in the world. The piazza slopes in a gentle bowl shape down to the Palazzo Pubblica, which served Siena as its primary muncipal building. Around the edges of the rim of the bowl are ristorantes and trattorias and a gelato shop that bills itself as having the best ice cream in the world. One of our group was compelled to sample the gelato. She agreed that it was pretty good, but isn't sure that it holds the world record!
This piazza is home to a famous horse race, the Palio, in which an enormous crowd gathers in the bottom of the bowl and the horses race around the rim. We understand that it's an extremely dangerous race for the horses, and many of them are seriously injured running on the ancient bricks. At other times, the people of Siena treat the piazza much the way Floridians approach the beaches. They sit and sun and chat and simply pass the time.
Inside the Palazzo Pubblica we view the frescoes that depict Good Government and Bad Government. These were quite revolutionary in their day as they are based on the idea that man can have direct input into the quality of his life simply by operating in a peaceful, communal way. Even though the Sienese were devout Christians, they accepted the idea that they could control their lives in a way that communities had never attempted before. The frescoes are remarkable.
For lunch we grab a slice of pizza and a bottle of water and eat and drink as we continue exploring the town. We visit the Duomo, which is famous for its patterned floors, its striped columns and its frescoed ceilings. And on the way back to our bus, we stop in at the Basilica of St. Catherine. The patron saint of Italy, St. Catherine is credited with returning the papacy to Rome from Avignon. Her basilica contains her head, inside a box. Inside another box is one of her fingers. I intend to spend some time on line when I get home - this definitely calls for more research! Since she has been dead since the 14th century, the appearance of her face, complete with rosy skin and beautiful eyes, seems pretty incredible. The finger, on the other hand, is dried and wizened. It's definitely a finger, though, complete with fingernail.
Back on our bus, we head for the beautiful mountain town of San Gimignano. San Gimignano once boasted over 70 towers, built successively higher by competing wealthy families. Fourteen of these are still standing, and the view from the base of the mountain is amazing. As we climb the very, very steep streets we catch glimpses of some of the towers. In the main piazza we turn slowly and count - seven towers visible.
This is a wonderful shopping town. We find a pink shirt for our granddaughter; a lovely framed piece of local art for ourselves, one which depicts the towers of San Gimignano; and finally buy a bottle of the lovely fruity white wine for which the region is famous. It's made with the vernaccia grape. We are finally beginning a little shopping and are thoroughly enjoying this wonderful mountain day.
As we ride back to Florence, admiring the skill of our intrepid driver, Marco, the conversation ebbs and flows around us. We hear discussions about what we've seen, what kinds of OLLI classes we'd like to see as a result of our experiences here, what museums we still must visit before we leave next week, what gifts we've bought for whom. Packages of chocolate biscotti, bags of sweet licorice, small packs of cookies, candied peanuts make their way up and down the aisle. We share what we have bought. We are pilgrims, and friends.
Back in Firenze, we ask Pierpaulo, the concierge, to make a reservation at a restaurant that he loves. Eight of us venture out; we have decided that we will order bistecca this evening. The giant T-bone steaks were recommended highly by our Italian language teacher, Fabrizio. Mike and I split a spinach pie for antipasto, then split the single steak. The bone is enormous - think Fred Flintstone and dinosaur steak. The spinach is divine, very similar to a spinach souffle. The steak has a flavor we've never tasted and is delicious. Along with a couple of pitchers of house Chianti and some fizzy water, we have a feast. Oh, and the Tuscan bread, which is unsalted and has become an acquired taste.
After a couple of hours talking and laughing with these lovely friends, we stroll back to the hotel. We resist the temptation to stop for gelato, but come back and uncork the wine we bought today. And here we sit, in the friendly bar at our hotel, chatting and sipping. I work on the blog and Mike checks the email for messages from the offspring; others plan their weekend trip to Rome, and our friendly hotelier watches over us all. Outside the open window (did I mention there are NO bugs?) we can hear the traffic passing. The breeze is lovely. Tomorrow we visit the Bargello, probably return to the Ufizzi, and maybe visit the church of San Marco to view the cell of Savonarola. We'll have another wonderful breakfast, a quick lunch sandwich, and another fabulous dinner. We wish we had another week.
Wednesday, June 18, 2014
Breathtaking mountain towns
The city of Assisi hangs on the side of a mountain and fairly gleams in the sunlight. It's easy to imagine the Franciscans of the 13th century moving silently through the colonnaded walkways and singing in the chapels. Our group strolled the cobbled streets, wonderfully uncrowded, delighting in the cool mountain breeze. The basilica of San Francesco is another beautiful sacred space, marred by the evidence of the damage done by the earthquake of 1997. Whole chunks of fresco were dislodged (killing several pilgrims), and all present hurried to gather every single shard of stone that fell to the floor.Even in the midst of a deadly earthquake, all souls in that space understood that the art had to be preserved. (I understand that one enterprising visitor recorded this on his video camera, and it can be found on YouTube.) Since the church is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, there have been U.N. funds available to assist in restoration, and it's well under way.
Particularly compelling to me was a very modern crucifix, depicting St. Francis prostrate at the foot of the cross. One of the arms of the crucified Christ is hanging freely from the cross, and his extended hand points to the monk. It could easily have been done by Picasso, but wasn't, of course. Of all the crucifixes we have seen, I found this to be the most interesting.
As we wandered back to our bus, we stopped for gelato. Mike had his usual limone, and I tried the stracciatella, which turned out to be vanilla with chocolate chips - delicious!
Did I mention that this was not my first gelato?
We went down the mountain and journeyed back north to Cortona. As I have been reading "Under the Tuscan Sun," this town was of particular interest to me. Our afternoon excursions have been mostly devoted to lunch, relaxation and conversation. How we wished we had more time in this truly beautiful village! Cortona has only one truly level street - all others are either straight up or straight down. This can be very challenging, especially for the senior citizens in our pilgrim group (actually that's all of us). But what a reward! I believe I took the most photos in Cortona. Every vista seemed to be a photo op.
At lunch we encountered our first locals who truly did not speak English. Thank you, Fabrizio, for your excellent tutelage in Italian (OLLI Maymester). Between pointing, gesturing, and some southern-accented Italian, we were able to communicate our order, ask for the check, and let our hosts know that our meal was molto bene.
Now I am home at the Hotel Casci, sitting with the group in the hotel bar, having an adult beverage and writing this account. The bar is half of the space that Rossini occupied in the 19th century, and definitely has good vibes. And this is where I write these accounts.
At this point in our trip, we are wishing we had an additional week. We feel comfortable, acclimated, and no longer jet-lagged. Bill assures us that no amount of time would be sufficient. Our only recourse is to return to Florence, to arrange for more time in Lucca, Assisi and Cortona. (Don't really feel a need to return to Pisa.) What a wonderful trip!
Particularly compelling to me was a very modern crucifix, depicting St. Francis prostrate at the foot of the cross. One of the arms of the crucified Christ is hanging freely from the cross, and his extended hand points to the monk. It could easily have been done by Picasso, but wasn't, of course. Of all the crucifixes we have seen, I found this to be the most interesting.
As we wandered back to our bus, we stopped for gelato. Mike had his usual limone, and I tried the stracciatella, which turned out to be vanilla with chocolate chips - delicious!
Did I mention that this was not my first gelato?
We went down the mountain and journeyed back north to Cortona. As I have been reading "Under the Tuscan Sun," this town was of particular interest to me. Our afternoon excursions have been mostly devoted to lunch, relaxation and conversation. How we wished we had more time in this truly beautiful village! Cortona has only one truly level street - all others are either straight up or straight down. This can be very challenging, especially for the senior citizens in our pilgrim group (actually that's all of us). But what a reward! I believe I took the most photos in Cortona. Every vista seemed to be a photo op.
At lunch we encountered our first locals who truly did not speak English. Thank you, Fabrizio, for your excellent tutelage in Italian (OLLI Maymester). Between pointing, gesturing, and some southern-accented Italian, we were able to communicate our order, ask for the check, and let our hosts know that our meal was molto bene.
Now I am home at the Hotel Casci, sitting with the group in the hotel bar, having an adult beverage and writing this account. The bar is half of the space that Rossini occupied in the 19th century, and definitely has good vibes. And this is where I write these accounts.
At this point in our trip, we are wishing we had an additional week. We feel comfortable, acclimated, and no longer jet-lagged. Bill assures us that no amount of time would be sufficient. Our only recourse is to return to Florence, to arrange for more time in Lucca, Assisi and Cortona. (Don't really feel a need to return to Pisa.) What a wonderful trip!
Tuesday, June 17, 2014
Churches, churches, churches
Today we're back in Florence, back in class at 10:30. We are to hear all about painting, and I suspect that Bill will surprise us with information that we've not heard before. Simply to call it "painting" - that seems such a poor word for what we've been seeing in churches and museums for the past week.
But first - the day begins with another of Signora Carla's fabulous breakfast spreads. I finally sampled the cake, a different variety of which has graced the buffet every morning. Signora tells me it is ricotta, pear and chocolate, and I can taste the delicious thin bottom crust with every bite. A hard-boiled egg, a dish of fruit, a small dish of cereal, and two cups of wonderful caffee latte must hold me for most of the day. This will be an activity-filled experience.
Before class, I venture out alone to purchase tickets for the Baptistry. I discover the ticket office and a working change machine. Coins are very hard to come by in shops and restaurants, and I am delighted to receive ten one-euro coins for my paper money. Now I can use the public bathrooms! I figure if I had another two weeks here, I would function like a native.
As soon as class is over at noon, Mike and I strike out for the Baptistry. We are scheduled to meet Bill and the rest of the group at Santa Maria Novella at 1:30, so we need to get down the street quickly and see the interior. Gentle readers who have visited Florence will remember that the Baptistry is home to the Ghiberti doors, which are no longer in place. They were heavily damaged in one of Florence's awful floods, and they are now housed in the Duomo museum, which is currently closed for restoration and repairs. We have been told that the reproductions that grace the front of the building are almost indistinguishable from the real things. We have no way of knowing if this is true, but we can say that the restoration is absolutely breathtaking.
We meet Bill and most of the group at 1:30 Santa Maria Novella, which was once a Dominican monastery. What a beautiful building! And the artwork inside is also quite beautiful. After spending about an hour in the church, we walk across the city to Santa Croce, which has been characterized as Italy's Westminster Abbey. It contains the tombs of Dante, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Da Vinci, and memorials to many other Italian luminaries. Santa Croce is also home to the leather school, and we are able to watch apprentices crafting beautiful leather goods. They are taking orders for handbags made to order, and gorgeous leather jackets and coats - for a mere 700 euro!
By now it is 5:00 p.m. and Mike and I decide to head for the hotel. We drop off our coats and bags and stroll down the street to explore a toy store and a paper store. The weather is delightful - sunny and cool. What a lovely evening for a walk!
Tomorrow we journey to Assisi and Cortona. Since Cortona is the summer home of Frances Mayes, author of "Under the Tuscan Sun," perhaps we will take another stroll down the country mile to Bramasole and see if we can spot her. We'll see!
But first - the day begins with another of Signora Carla's fabulous breakfast spreads. I finally sampled the cake, a different variety of which has graced the buffet every morning. Signora tells me it is ricotta, pear and chocolate, and I can taste the delicious thin bottom crust with every bite. A hard-boiled egg, a dish of fruit, a small dish of cereal, and two cups of wonderful caffee latte must hold me for most of the day. This will be an activity-filled experience.
Before class, I venture out alone to purchase tickets for the Baptistry. I discover the ticket office and a working change machine. Coins are very hard to come by in shops and restaurants, and I am delighted to receive ten one-euro coins for my paper money. Now I can use the public bathrooms! I figure if I had another two weeks here, I would function like a native.
As soon as class is over at noon, Mike and I strike out for the Baptistry. We are scheduled to meet Bill and the rest of the group at Santa Maria Novella at 1:30, so we need to get down the street quickly and see the interior. Gentle readers who have visited Florence will remember that the Baptistry is home to the Ghiberti doors, which are no longer in place. They were heavily damaged in one of Florence's awful floods, and they are now housed in the Duomo museum, which is currently closed for restoration and repairs. We have been told that the reproductions that grace the front of the building are almost indistinguishable from the real things. We have no way of knowing if this is true, but we can say that the restoration is absolutely breathtaking.
We meet Bill and most of the group at 1:30 Santa Maria Novella, which was once a Dominican monastery. What a beautiful building! And the artwork inside is also quite beautiful. After spending about an hour in the church, we walk across the city to Santa Croce, which has been characterized as Italy's Westminster Abbey. It contains the tombs of Dante, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Da Vinci, and memorials to many other Italian luminaries. Santa Croce is also home to the leather school, and we are able to watch apprentices crafting beautiful leather goods. They are taking orders for handbags made to order, and gorgeous leather jackets and coats - for a mere 700 euro!
By now it is 5:00 p.m. and Mike and I decide to head for the hotel. We drop off our coats and bags and stroll down the street to explore a toy store and a paper store. The weather is delightful - sunny and cool. What a lovely evening for a walk!
Tomorrow we journey to Assisi and Cortona. Since Cortona is the summer home of Frances Mayes, author of "Under the Tuscan Sun," perhaps we will take another stroll down the country mile to Bramasole and see if we can spot her. We'll see!
Monday, June 16, 2014
Into the countryside
Last evening we searched out a restaurant recommended by Rick Steves, and old Rick really hit this one out of the park. Il Latini specializes in a prix fixe dinner. The Latin connection seems to be a bit Argentinian, as the dining room featured large hanging hunks of beef, and one of the staff spent the entire time we were there busily slicing prosciutto, salami, and other cured meats. The prix fixe included an enormous amount of food: antipasto, first course, second course, side dish, dessert, water, wine, and after-dinner drink. There is just no way this group of esteemed American senior citizens could possibly eat that much! To the disappointment of the staff, we insisted on seeing a menu. And we totally confounded our waiter by ordering only salad and pasta and drinking only one portion of the wine. (The bottle was HUGE, and there were two for the table.} When he asked if we were ready for a main course, we responded, "We're Americans; that WAS the main course." And we smiled.
The food we did order was absolutely wonderful, though, continuing an unbroken succession of wonderful meals.And as always, the company was exceptional!
Today we boarded a comfortable bus for a trip into the Tuscan countryside to visit Pisa and Lucca. Even though we had trained a bit for a climb of the Leaning Tower, we decided to forego it. Those who made the climb are glad they did, and we are glad we did not. We felt we were able to see more of the magnificent cathedral and its Baptistry than we would have had we climbed. So all was well!
The Tuscan towns that are scattered in the general area of Florence have quite a different feel from the city itself. The pace is much slower, and there are far fewer tourists. In Lucca the shops were actually closed for riposa, something that pretty much doesn't happen in Florence, which is much more attuned to the preferences of tourists. These places are just plain leisurely. However, it's lovely.
Lucca is one of the few towns in the world that has a completely intact city wall, and it dates to Roman times. Wonder of wonders, the city has turned the top of the wall into a beautiful biking/running/walking trail. What a treat! After having a wonderful lunch (yes, eating again), we took a walk through the town and walked the wall.
For the past two days, the weather has been cool, only a few drops of rain. We drove through the foothills of the Apennines, past enormous rock and marble quarries, each mountaintop crowned with a cloud and frequently holding a massive villa or a ruined castle. There were olive trees, grapevines, and even corn, which Italians do not eat but grow for cattle feed. (Again, those crazy Americans, who love their corn on the cob!) Aside from the Italian road signs, everything felt almost familiar. This is a comfortable country.
So, tomorrow, back to the classroom. We'll hear from Bill about painting, then visit more museums, and I will finally break down and do some shopping. I'm just beginning to get the itch . . . .
The food we did order was absolutely wonderful, though, continuing an unbroken succession of wonderful meals.And as always, the company was exceptional!
Today we boarded a comfortable bus for a trip into the Tuscan countryside to visit Pisa and Lucca. Even though we had trained a bit for a climb of the Leaning Tower, we decided to forego it. Those who made the climb are glad they did, and we are glad we did not. We felt we were able to see more of the magnificent cathedral and its Baptistry than we would have had we climbed. So all was well!
The Tuscan towns that are scattered in the general area of Florence have quite a different feel from the city itself. The pace is much slower, and there are far fewer tourists. In Lucca the shops were actually closed for riposa, something that pretty much doesn't happen in Florence, which is much more attuned to the preferences of tourists. These places are just plain leisurely. However, it's lovely.
Lucca is one of the few towns in the world that has a completely intact city wall, and it dates to Roman times. Wonder of wonders, the city has turned the top of the wall into a beautiful biking/running/walking trail. What a treat! After having a wonderful lunch (yes, eating again), we took a walk through the town and walked the wall.
For the past two days, the weather has been cool, only a few drops of rain. We drove through the foothills of the Apennines, past enormous rock and marble quarries, each mountaintop crowned with a cloud and frequently holding a massive villa or a ruined castle. There were olive trees, grapevines, and even corn, which Italians do not eat but grow for cattle feed. (Again, those crazy Americans, who love their corn on the cob!) Aside from the Italian road signs, everything felt almost familiar. This is a comfortable country.
So, tomorrow, back to the classroom. We'll hear from Bill about painting, then visit more museums, and I will finally break down and do some shopping. I'm just beginning to get the itch . . . .
Sunday, June 15, 2014
We are under the spell of Firenze
It's Sunday today, Father's Day. First, Happy Father's Day to my sweet daddy and to my wonderful son, both great dads.
Next, Florence is a happy place today - Italy won their World Cup match last night. Our waiter (who has now become our favorite) assured us that no one would be out today had they lost. (Reminded us of Tallahasseans on some very sad football Sundays.)
We had a quiet dinner last evening with another couple. Everyone in our group seemed to be in sore need of a regrouping day, and today was it. We slept late, made it to breakfast before it closed, then took our time with showers and dressing. I decided that laundry can wait for a couple of days, then sat down to figure out what we've seen, what we want to see, and which days will be for what.
In my reading of "Under the Tuscan Sun," I've been struck by Mayes' frequent musings on how her inborn Southern sense of place seems so appropriate here in Tuscany. The Fiorentinos are so sweet and calm, so courteous and helpful. There is a sense of security and peace in the city, even with the throngs of tourists. As we left our restaurant today, George (our guy) hugged all four of us, even the men. And interestingly, after having been in something of a whirlwind for the past few days, getting a concentrated introduction to churches, museums, architecture, piazzas, indoor and outdoor sculpture, on and on and on, I believe we are familiar with the area and ready to strike out on our own.
SO - I sat on the bed, pulled out the guidebooks and maps and the wonderful lists that Bill has made for us (almost like scavenger hunts, "Make sure you taste this gelato, peek into that paper shop, haggle in this market"), and I plotted a broad course. As soon as we were ready, we ventured forth.
The first gift of the day was the weather. It was lovely and cool, with a breeze. No need for sunglasses; it was overcast. What a nice break from the heat!
Only a few doors down from our hotel is the Medici Palace. Quite plain from the outside, the palace is a marvel of design and color inside. The palace is owned by the City of Florence and has many offices and meeting rooms on the upper floors. In some instances the rooms on the lower floors have been preserved as they were designed in the 16th century. The frescoed ceilings and ornate walls are breathtaking. There is even one bedroom that was restored in the 19th century, when Florence was the capital of Italy, and the furnishings are distinctly Victorian! In this ancient city, that is downright brand new.
Other rooms are used as modern art exhibition space. One can step from an Italian Renaissance salon into a spare white space with surrealist paintings. Beautifully curated and lighted, these galleries are refreshing, but startling, and definitely unexpected.
In the center of the palace is a beautiful garden space, filled with sculpture. A few drops of rain fell as we wandered and snapped pictures. This is truly a hidden treasure just a few steps from the busy modern street.
After a lovely lunch in our favorite restaurant and a little visit with George the Waiter, we headed for the Accademia. This is where the Michelangelo "David" is housed. It's a small museum, but the space that the famous sculpture occupies is soaring and dramatic. The statue itself is more than a visit - it is a not-to-be-missed experience. We walked around, we read the commentary, we took photos, and we still weren't sure how to take it all in.
The Accademia is still a working institute of art instruction, and there is evidence everywhere of its commitment to education. One whole room is filled with all kinds of pieces and parts and miscellaneous sculptures, marked with black dots called pimples, which designate the areas that are used as teaching tools.
One floor up, there is a wealth of very, very old church art. Altar pieces, polyptychs, tapestries - all kinds of iconography are assembled here. Bill has helped us see symbols that we wouldn't have noticed before. Our appreciation of art has improved by leaps and bounds!
What a day! And how many layers have been added to our sense of this place. Every experience shapes our perceptions of Florence and further convinces us that we'll never visit another city quite like this one.
Next, Florence is a happy place today - Italy won their World Cup match last night. Our waiter (who has now become our favorite) assured us that no one would be out today had they lost. (Reminded us of Tallahasseans on some very sad football Sundays.)
We had a quiet dinner last evening with another couple. Everyone in our group seemed to be in sore need of a regrouping day, and today was it. We slept late, made it to breakfast before it closed, then took our time with showers and dressing. I decided that laundry can wait for a couple of days, then sat down to figure out what we've seen, what we want to see, and which days will be for what.
In my reading of "Under the Tuscan Sun," I've been struck by Mayes' frequent musings on how her inborn Southern sense of place seems so appropriate here in Tuscany. The Fiorentinos are so sweet and calm, so courteous and helpful. There is a sense of security and peace in the city, even with the throngs of tourists. As we left our restaurant today, George (our guy) hugged all four of us, even the men. And interestingly, after having been in something of a whirlwind for the past few days, getting a concentrated introduction to churches, museums, architecture, piazzas, indoor and outdoor sculpture, on and on and on, I believe we are familiar with the area and ready to strike out on our own.
SO - I sat on the bed, pulled out the guidebooks and maps and the wonderful lists that Bill has made for us (almost like scavenger hunts, "Make sure you taste this gelato, peek into that paper shop, haggle in this market"), and I plotted a broad course. As soon as we were ready, we ventured forth.
The first gift of the day was the weather. It was lovely and cool, with a breeze. No need for sunglasses; it was overcast. What a nice break from the heat!
Only a few doors down from our hotel is the Medici Palace. Quite plain from the outside, the palace is a marvel of design and color inside. The palace is owned by the City of Florence and has many offices and meeting rooms on the upper floors. In some instances the rooms on the lower floors have been preserved as they were designed in the 16th century. The frescoed ceilings and ornate walls are breathtaking. There is even one bedroom that was restored in the 19th century, when Florence was the capital of Italy, and the furnishings are distinctly Victorian! In this ancient city, that is downright brand new.
Other rooms are used as modern art exhibition space. One can step from an Italian Renaissance salon into a spare white space with surrealist paintings. Beautifully curated and lighted, these galleries are refreshing, but startling, and definitely unexpected.
In the center of the palace is a beautiful garden space, filled with sculpture. A few drops of rain fell as we wandered and snapped pictures. This is truly a hidden treasure just a few steps from the busy modern street.
After a lovely lunch in our favorite restaurant and a little visit with George the Waiter, we headed for the Accademia. This is where the Michelangelo "David" is housed. It's a small museum, but the space that the famous sculpture occupies is soaring and dramatic. The statue itself is more than a visit - it is a not-to-be-missed experience. We walked around, we read the commentary, we took photos, and we still weren't sure how to take it all in.
The Accademia is still a working institute of art instruction, and there is evidence everywhere of its commitment to education. One whole room is filled with all kinds of pieces and parts and miscellaneous sculptures, marked with black dots called pimples, which designate the areas that are used as teaching tools.
One floor up, there is a wealth of very, very old church art. Altar pieces, polyptychs, tapestries - all kinds of iconography are assembled here. Bill has helped us see symbols that we wouldn't have noticed before. Our appreciation of art has improved by leaps and bounds!
What a day! And how many layers have been added to our sense of this place. Every experience shapes our perceptions of Florence and further convinces us that we'll never visit another city quite like this one.
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