We bade farewell to Derry and set out for the northern coast once again. Today's first stop was at the Giants' Causeway. This unique geologic wonder is the result of ancient volcanic activity and resembles a gigantic road right into the north Atlantic. It's also said to be the windiest point in Ireland, which is a bold claim, indeed. We have been pretty much windblown throughout our trip!
After a couple of hours exploring the coastline and the visitors' center, we had a little snack (hot chocolate and scones), then headed for the bus and began our drive through the Glens of Antrim.
This might be the most beautiful drive in all of the country. Rolling hills, deep valleys, small houses, many sheep, horses, and cattle all combine to drive home the fact that most of Ireland is rural and quite sparsely populated. In many areas the soil simply doesn't support much of a crop, except for hay and silage for livestock. Many families maintain small flocks and kitchen gardens, but must supplement their income in the service industry. Tourism is important. It's a hard-scrabble life for many, with rocky soil, much rain, and chilly (though temperate year-round) days. We have been amused by the complaining of locals, grumbling about the heat and humidity. We haven't had a single day when the temperature has been much above 65 degrees, and humidity - no. We are not complaining at all - we know that our Tallahassee weather with still be terribly hot and humid when we return.
We arrived in Belfast around 2:30 p.m., checked into the beautiful Europa hotel, then ventured out for a bit of free time in the city.
Our first stop was the Belfast City Hall. An ornate Victorian building, it boasts a high dome surrounded by towers topped by smaller domes. On the front lawn stands a huge statue of Queen Victoria, looking imperial and perhaps just the slightest bit annoyed. Inside the building, the floors and ceilings are ornate and quite beautiful. The entire first floor of the building is given over to a well-curated exhibit of the city's history.
After City Hall, we headed down a couple of blocks to Victoria Square, a modern, very posh shopping venue. Filled with international stores (and a Five Guys and a TGI Fridays), Victoria Square is a multi-story hybrid of open air and closed shopping mall, with an enormous glass dome at the top that offers a spectacular view of the entire city.
As we made our way back to our hotel, we decided to try the historic Crown Pub across the street from the Europa for a drink and dinner. Such fun! It's ornately decorated and packed with people. It features little room-like booths with doors that can be closed (but no one does - the fun is having people poke their heads in to say hello). With beer and wine and fish and chips all around, we spent a couple of relaxing hours with friends before venturing back to our room for an early bedtime.
Tomorrow, the Titanic Experience, the city tour, and on to Cabra Castle!
Thursday, August 29, 2019
Wednesday, August 28, 2019
Day 9 - Malin Head and Derry, August 28, 2019
Today we left Derry and journeyed north, back into the Republic of Ireland through the Inishowen Peninsula to Malin Head, the northernmost point of the Republic. Long a lookout point for the country, Malin Head served as a landmark to pilots in World War II, and Lloyd's of London maintains a tower on the top of the cliff that serves as a weather monitoring station for all of western Europe.
We were blessed with a beautiful day of sunshine and scudding clouds, so the walk up to the top of the cliff was pleasant, although pretty steep. And of course everything was wet; everything is always wet in Ireland. It has either just rained or will rain shortly - but today we had sun for quite a while!
After a good look around and plenty of time for photos, we ventured a mile or so down the hill to Ferren's, the northernmost pub in Ireland. The Ferren family has offered hospitality to the farmers and fishermen who live in Malin (and to the occasional busload of travelers) for over six generations. When we arrived, the mother and son team had Irish coffee, Bailey's and coffee, and Guinness for whoever wanted it, and also coffee, tea, and whiskey. The hubs and I have grown quite used to drinking hot tea in this country that consumes the most tea of any in the world. In from the cold and the wind, very hot tea with milk and sugar (me) or just straight (the hubs) is a lovely experience.
We lingered for a while in the pub - a couple of our travelers even shot a little pool - then hopped back on the bus to return to Derry for lunch and a full afternoon on our own.
This day may well turn out to be my favorite of the trip. Derry is such a fascinating city, with both its ancient and recent history bubbling just beneath the surface. It's very uncrowded; it may be that the Troubles still loom large to many travelers who are a bit hesitant to visit. This is a shame. The city fathers have worked very hard to restore much of the city that was bombed in the last century, and the local folks are friendly and welcoming and have such a lovely way about them.
After a nice lunch at the hotel, the hubs and I ventured out to take the mural walk. Along about a 300-yard stretch of Rossville Street, there are powerful murals painted on the sides and ends of the apartment buildings that crowd this area, known as the Bogside. Outside the original city walls, the Bogside is home to much of the city's Catholic population, and Rossville Street is the site of a great deal of the violence that began in earnest in 1972 and continued until almost the end of the century - those turbulent years of bloodshed and death known to everyone as the Troubles. The murals depict people and events of the bombings, in particular Bloody Sunday. Suffice it to say that it was an illuminating and sobering afternoon, and we were very aware that the peace that exists today is a fragile one, as evidenced by the angry graffiti and many militant signs.
Visiting Derry and seeing so many of its historical sights has been a highlight of this tour. Enhancing our enjoyment was a delicious dinner and a one-man show this evening, called the Spirit of Derry. We were treated to a most entertaining performance by Kiernan McGrath, currently the guiding light behind the Derry Playhouse, and formerly the lead tenor of the group 12 Irish Tenors. Kiernan returned to his birthplace to raise his family, and his love of Derry and his hopes for the future were obvious in his performance. We loved it. What a great end to a most interesting and provocative day!
Tomorrow, the Giant's Causeway and Belfast.
We were blessed with a beautiful day of sunshine and scudding clouds, so the walk up to the top of the cliff was pleasant, although pretty steep. And of course everything was wet; everything is always wet in Ireland. It has either just rained or will rain shortly - but today we had sun for quite a while!
After a good look around and plenty of time for photos, we ventured a mile or so down the hill to Ferren's, the northernmost pub in Ireland. The Ferren family has offered hospitality to the farmers and fishermen who live in Malin (and to the occasional busload of travelers) for over six generations. When we arrived, the mother and son team had Irish coffee, Bailey's and coffee, and Guinness for whoever wanted it, and also coffee, tea, and whiskey. The hubs and I have grown quite used to drinking hot tea in this country that consumes the most tea of any in the world. In from the cold and the wind, very hot tea with milk and sugar (me) or just straight (the hubs) is a lovely experience.
We lingered for a while in the pub - a couple of our travelers even shot a little pool - then hopped back on the bus to return to Derry for lunch and a full afternoon on our own.
This day may well turn out to be my favorite of the trip. Derry is such a fascinating city, with both its ancient and recent history bubbling just beneath the surface. It's very uncrowded; it may be that the Troubles still loom large to many travelers who are a bit hesitant to visit. This is a shame. The city fathers have worked very hard to restore much of the city that was bombed in the last century, and the local folks are friendly and welcoming and have such a lovely way about them.
After a nice lunch at the hotel, the hubs and I ventured out to take the mural walk. Along about a 300-yard stretch of Rossville Street, there are powerful murals painted on the sides and ends of the apartment buildings that crowd this area, known as the Bogside. Outside the original city walls, the Bogside is home to much of the city's Catholic population, and Rossville Street is the site of a great deal of the violence that began in earnest in 1972 and continued until almost the end of the century - those turbulent years of bloodshed and death known to everyone as the Troubles. The murals depict people and events of the bombings, in particular Bloody Sunday. Suffice it to say that it was an illuminating and sobering afternoon, and we were very aware that the peace that exists today is a fragile one, as evidenced by the angry graffiti and many militant signs.
Visiting Derry and seeing so many of its historical sights has been a highlight of this tour. Enhancing our enjoyment was a delicious dinner and a one-man show this evening, called the Spirit of Derry. We were treated to a most entertaining performance by Kiernan McGrath, currently the guiding light behind the Derry Playhouse, and formerly the lead tenor of the group 12 Irish Tenors. Kiernan returned to his birthplace to raise his family, and his love of Derry and his hopes for the future were obvious in his performance. We loved it. What a great end to a most interesting and provocative day!
Tomorrow, the Giant's Causeway and Belfast.
Tuesday, August 27, 2019
Day 8 - Ardara, Donegal Town, and Derry - August 27, 2019
We boarded our bus this morning in the midst of a light rain which continued throughout most of the day. Our first destination was the tiny village of Ardara, County Donegal, specifically Triona, workshop and shop of a family long in the weaving business, and designers and creators of fine Donegal tweed goods.
These coats, sweaters, dresses, and even purses made of handwoven tweed fabric are simply beautiful. Many in our group purchased small items (socks, wallets, newsboy caps) and large ones (capes, ponchos, one beautiful Aran sweater, and at least two men's sport coats). The hubs couldn't resist, and finally bought himself something - a fine herringbone tweed jacket in black and grey. He continues to be a perfect 40 Regular, and the coat looks as though it were tailored for him. He will wear it to the farewell dinner Friday evening, and I'll take a photo!
From Ardara we continued to drive through County Donegal to Donegal Town, where we stopped for lunch and a bit of a browse. Home to Donegal Castle, the town has a population of only 2600. We had a great, leisurely lunch, then back on the bus.
As we neared Derry, we could glimpse the city through the trees that line the River Foyle. Since the day continued to be gray and misting rain, the view was dramatic: houses and other buildings straggling up the riverbank, with church spires poking into the clouds and the brooding city wall separating the very old from the not-so-old.
The hubs and I agreed that we may never have visited a city that has an intact wall completely circling the original settlement. The old part of the city dates back to the early 17th century. Visitors can walk the entire circumference, passing seven gates and several restored cannons. The wall is high and broad, and one can walk along the top or around the base in the dry moat. Inside is the old city, which was bombed numerous times in the years of the Troubles, and which is now being renewed and energized for both residents and tourists.
After we checked into our hotel, we met our tour manager in the lobby and boarded the bus for a brief guided ride around the city with Ronan, a local guide. Ronan's calm recitation of the history of Derry, with equal attention given to the issues of both sides, was comprehensive and powerful. After a brief bus ride, we disembarked and continued on foot, walking a portion of the wall and learning as much as Ronan had time to teach us. We are very lucky that we will be here tomorrow and will have a chance to return to some of the places we found the most interesting and take our time to read about them.
After a lovely dinner with friends, we have returned to our room and headed for bed. Tomorrow morning we visit the northernmost tip of Ireland, out the Inishowen Peninsula to Malin Head. We expect it to be spectacular. Tomorrow afternoon, free time in Derry, and we will explore.
These coats, sweaters, dresses, and even purses made of handwoven tweed fabric are simply beautiful. Many in our group purchased small items (socks, wallets, newsboy caps) and large ones (capes, ponchos, one beautiful Aran sweater, and at least two men's sport coats). The hubs couldn't resist, and finally bought himself something - a fine herringbone tweed jacket in black and grey. He continues to be a perfect 40 Regular, and the coat looks as though it were tailored for him. He will wear it to the farewell dinner Friday evening, and I'll take a photo!
From Ardara we continued to drive through County Donegal to Donegal Town, where we stopped for lunch and a bit of a browse. Home to Donegal Castle, the town has a population of only 2600. We had a great, leisurely lunch, then back on the bus.
As we neared Derry, we could glimpse the city through the trees that line the River Foyle. Since the day continued to be gray and misting rain, the view was dramatic: houses and other buildings straggling up the riverbank, with church spires poking into the clouds and the brooding city wall separating the very old from the not-so-old.
The hubs and I agreed that we may never have visited a city that has an intact wall completely circling the original settlement. The old part of the city dates back to the early 17th century. Visitors can walk the entire circumference, passing seven gates and several restored cannons. The wall is high and broad, and one can walk along the top or around the base in the dry moat. Inside is the old city, which was bombed numerous times in the years of the Troubles, and which is now being renewed and energized for both residents and tourists.
After we checked into our hotel, we met our tour manager in the lobby and boarded the bus for a brief guided ride around the city with Ronan, a local guide. Ronan's calm recitation of the history of Derry, with equal attention given to the issues of both sides, was comprehensive and powerful. After a brief bus ride, we disembarked and continued on foot, walking a portion of the wall and learning as much as Ronan had time to teach us. We are very lucky that we will be here tomorrow and will have a chance to return to some of the places we found the most interesting and take our time to read about them.
After a lovely dinner with friends, we have returned to our room and headed for bed. Tomorrow morning we visit the northernmost tip of Ireland, out the Inishowen Peninsula to Malin Head. We expect it to be spectacular. Tomorrow afternoon, free time in Derry, and we will explore.
Monday, August 26, 2019
Day 7 - Ennis to the farm to Galway to Enniskillen - August 26,2019
Today dawned clear and sunny, and the beautiful weather persisted as we left our hotel and journeyed to the Rathbun Farm.
The farmer and his wife supplement their income by welcoming groups into the old farm buildings, showing off their sheep, and offering delicious homemade scones with fresh butter and jam and positively the best tea ever.
First we learned about sheep farming, hearing from Fenton that he raises the lambs for meat, so keeps the ewes and two rams as the production team. He has around 80-90 ewes. The lambs are born in the spring, and as soon as they reach around 100 pounds in weight, they are shipped to the slaughterhouses. Lamb is a large export item in Ireland, and there's also a healthy Irish market. Their wool, we learned, is no longer a desirable product, as most consumers in the northern hemisphere prefer the softer merino wool from Australia and New Zealand. He must keep the sheep sheared for health reasons, and ships the wool to China at a loss. There it's used for coarser blankets and rugs.
Ted, the border collie, gave us a fine demonstration of how a working dog earns his keep. This one fairly small guy is all the farmer needs to keep his sheep in line. It was a pleasure to watch him work. He is all business, however; once he had shown off his skills, he retired to the farmhouse. He had no interest in all the love we tried to lavish on him. By this time in the trip, we are all missing our fur babies!
After a really interesting session in the barn with the sheep, we joined the farmer's wife in a lovely room where she served us her homemade scones. What a treat! Afterward we toured the two very old farm buildings that they have preserved to show how life on the farm was 250 years ago. After a little tour of the house, we wandered the grounds a bit, then boarded our bus for Galway.
With only two hours in Galway, the hubs and I decided that lunch was a nuisance we just didn't need. We were still pretty full from the scones, etc., so we brought out our trusty Rick Steves and began to explore.
Although there is a lot of history in Galway, there's much more fun in the here and now. It's a lively international city with visitors, but not in huge numbers. From Eyre Square down to the Corrib River, the main shopping street has been made into a pedestrian walkway, and it's lined with small shops, many pubs, and a smattering of historical landmarks. We poked around, enjoyed the many buskers, found some things that (typical Rick Steves) were a little quirky, and just generally enjoyed ourselves. We are grateful Galway was included on this trip, even though our time there was short.
This was the longest day of the entire journey, traveling all the way from Ennis to Enniskillen. Lots of bus time (erk), but one fascinating stop after we left Galway at a tiny village called Knock. (Knock just means "hill" in Irish.)
Knock is the site of a fairly famous shrine that was established as a result of a vision shared by at least 75 villagers in 1879. Having been investigated and approved by the Pope, a basilica was built, and many pilgrims visit it daily throughout most of the year. On a cold, gray, windy day, we wandered the grounds, poked our heads into the sanctuary, and went on our way. I believe this is the first active shrine I have ever visited, and it was serious business for those who were there seeking blessings.
By 5:30, we had arrived in Enniskillen, driven through the very picturesque town, and continued for a few miles out in the country. At this point we are in Northern Ireland, which is part of the United Kingdom. There is no marked border, but suddenly the road signs speak of miles rather than kilometers, and the roads are A roads rather than N roads. And, oh, yes, we need pounds instead of Euros. Otherwise, it's still just beautiful Ireland!
The Manor Country House Hotel is drop-dead gorgeous. Featuring a beautiful golf course and a large lake, it is a luxurious resort. We dined here this evening, and now to bed.
Tomorrow, back to the Republic for shopping in Donegal, then into Northern Ireland again for a two-day stay in Derry. Euros, pounds - whatever.
The farmer and his wife supplement their income by welcoming groups into the old farm buildings, showing off their sheep, and offering delicious homemade scones with fresh butter and jam and positively the best tea ever.
First we learned about sheep farming, hearing from Fenton that he raises the lambs for meat, so keeps the ewes and two rams as the production team. He has around 80-90 ewes. The lambs are born in the spring, and as soon as they reach around 100 pounds in weight, they are shipped to the slaughterhouses. Lamb is a large export item in Ireland, and there's also a healthy Irish market. Their wool, we learned, is no longer a desirable product, as most consumers in the northern hemisphere prefer the softer merino wool from Australia and New Zealand. He must keep the sheep sheared for health reasons, and ships the wool to China at a loss. There it's used for coarser blankets and rugs.
Ted, the border collie, gave us a fine demonstration of how a working dog earns his keep. This one fairly small guy is all the farmer needs to keep his sheep in line. It was a pleasure to watch him work. He is all business, however; once he had shown off his skills, he retired to the farmhouse. He had no interest in all the love we tried to lavish on him. By this time in the trip, we are all missing our fur babies!
After a really interesting session in the barn with the sheep, we joined the farmer's wife in a lovely room where she served us her homemade scones. What a treat! Afterward we toured the two very old farm buildings that they have preserved to show how life on the farm was 250 years ago. After a little tour of the house, we wandered the grounds a bit, then boarded our bus for Galway.
With only two hours in Galway, the hubs and I decided that lunch was a nuisance we just didn't need. We were still pretty full from the scones, etc., so we brought out our trusty Rick Steves and began to explore.
Although there is a lot of history in Galway, there's much more fun in the here and now. It's a lively international city with visitors, but not in huge numbers. From Eyre Square down to the Corrib River, the main shopping street has been made into a pedestrian walkway, and it's lined with small shops, many pubs, and a smattering of historical landmarks. We poked around, enjoyed the many buskers, found some things that (typical Rick Steves) were a little quirky, and just generally enjoyed ourselves. We are grateful Galway was included on this trip, even though our time there was short.
This was the longest day of the entire journey, traveling all the way from Ennis to Enniskillen. Lots of bus time (erk), but one fascinating stop after we left Galway at a tiny village called Knock. (Knock just means "hill" in Irish.)
Knock is the site of a fairly famous shrine that was established as a result of a vision shared by at least 75 villagers in 1879. Having been investigated and approved by the Pope, a basilica was built, and many pilgrims visit it daily throughout most of the year. On a cold, gray, windy day, we wandered the grounds, poked our heads into the sanctuary, and went on our way. I believe this is the first active shrine I have ever visited, and it was serious business for those who were there seeking blessings.
By 5:30, we had arrived in Enniskillen, driven through the very picturesque town, and continued for a few miles out in the country. At this point we are in Northern Ireland, which is part of the United Kingdom. There is no marked border, but suddenly the road signs speak of miles rather than kilometers, and the roads are A roads rather than N roads. And, oh, yes, we need pounds instead of Euros. Otherwise, it's still just beautiful Ireland!
The Manor Country House Hotel is drop-dead gorgeous. Featuring a beautiful golf course and a large lake, it is a luxurious resort. We dined here this evening, and now to bed.
Tomorrow, back to the Republic for shopping in Donegal, then into Northern Ireland again for a two-day stay in Derry. Euros, pounds - whatever.
Sunday, August 25, 2019
Day 6 - August 25, 2019, Ireland
Today is my birthday. What a great locale for a celebration!
We started our day with a trip to Moriarty's, a lovely little shop outside of Killarney with the most beautiful Irish goods we have seen so far. We shopped, which is unusual for us, but we just couldn't resist buying a shirt (the hubs) and a sweater (me). Both are lightweight (we are still Tallahasseans) but just lovely and soft. We were so tempted by the blankets and hand-woven sweaters, but had to be practical. They would be of no use in our Florida winters. Plus, there's the small matter of having absolutely no room left in our luggage!
Like most of the places we have been, both commercial and public, Moriarty's features a lovely garden next to a little fast-moving stream. In fact, this locale could have been the setting for The Quiet Man. I keep expecting John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara to come trotting along in a jaunting cart any minute.
After shopping, we journeyed to the Cliffs of Moher, with a brief lunch stop in the coastal village of Lahinch. This village reminded us of the coastal towns of England, with their crowds of holiday families (it's a Sunday), children in swimsuits and clinging to towels, the wind whipping, the sun moving in and out of the clouds, and everyone pretending it was a fine day at the beach. At least the surfers were wearing wet suits! To this group of Floridians, this behavior was madness. It was cold and windy and NOT swimsuit weather.
The Cliffs of Moher were only a few minutes away from our lunch village, and it's tough for me to do justice to this part of our day. This very popular tourist spot is beautifully managed, with a visitors' center built right into the side of the hill leading up to the cliffs and well-tended paths and strong walls to keep people away from the edge. The wind can be quite high, with gale force gusts, so there is some hazard involved. Of course we heard everyone's grisly stories (a woman camping nearby in a tent swept over the side, tent and all, by the force of the wind), but today was almost moderate. Having said that, I don't mean to minimize the wind; it made for a challenging climb. But what a reward! Looking north and south along the cliffs, out to the three Aran Islands, and down into the crashing surf was just spectacular. This was one of those times when I truly regretted not having a fine camera and a well-trained eye. My photos don't even begin to reflect what we saw.
A delightful bonus of this stop is that OLLI friends Frank Alarcon and Kate Kearney got engaged! Frank, the romantic, had been hiding the ring for the whole trip and enlisted another couple to casually hang around him, making sure to take a photo of the moment that Frank went down on one knee. Needless to say, this was a wonderful experience for all of us on the trip, including the folks who aren't with our group but who have become like family. All 43 of us, plus our tour manager Kim and our bus driver Nick, have moved with an extra bounce in our steps for the rest of this wonderful day.
And a footnote: Bob and Kathryn Callan celebrated their 46th anniversary today. What a great place for all of these celebrations!
Tonight we dined at the hotel, and are back in our room, getting ready for an early start in the morning. Tomorrow - Galway and Enniskillen!
We started our day with a trip to Moriarty's, a lovely little shop outside of Killarney with the most beautiful Irish goods we have seen so far. We shopped, which is unusual for us, but we just couldn't resist buying a shirt (the hubs) and a sweater (me). Both are lightweight (we are still Tallahasseans) but just lovely and soft. We were so tempted by the blankets and hand-woven sweaters, but had to be practical. They would be of no use in our Florida winters. Plus, there's the small matter of having absolutely no room left in our luggage!
Like most of the places we have been, both commercial and public, Moriarty's features a lovely garden next to a little fast-moving stream. In fact, this locale could have been the setting for The Quiet Man. I keep expecting John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara to come trotting along in a jaunting cart any minute.
After shopping, we journeyed to the Cliffs of Moher, with a brief lunch stop in the coastal village of Lahinch. This village reminded us of the coastal towns of England, with their crowds of holiday families (it's a Sunday), children in swimsuits and clinging to towels, the wind whipping, the sun moving in and out of the clouds, and everyone pretending it was a fine day at the beach. At least the surfers were wearing wet suits! To this group of Floridians, this behavior was madness. It was cold and windy and NOT swimsuit weather.
The Cliffs of Moher were only a few minutes away from our lunch village, and it's tough for me to do justice to this part of our day. This very popular tourist spot is beautifully managed, with a visitors' center built right into the side of the hill leading up to the cliffs and well-tended paths and strong walls to keep people away from the edge. The wind can be quite high, with gale force gusts, so there is some hazard involved. Of course we heard everyone's grisly stories (a woman camping nearby in a tent swept over the side, tent and all, by the force of the wind), but today was almost moderate. Having said that, I don't mean to minimize the wind; it made for a challenging climb. But what a reward! Looking north and south along the cliffs, out to the three Aran Islands, and down into the crashing surf was just spectacular. This was one of those times when I truly regretted not having a fine camera and a well-trained eye. My photos don't even begin to reflect what we saw.
A delightful bonus of this stop is that OLLI friends Frank Alarcon and Kate Kearney got engaged! Frank, the romantic, had been hiding the ring for the whole trip and enlisted another couple to casually hang around him, making sure to take a photo of the moment that Frank went down on one knee. Needless to say, this was a wonderful experience for all of us on the trip, including the folks who aren't with our group but who have become like family. All 43 of us, plus our tour manager Kim and our bus driver Nick, have moved with an extra bounce in our steps for the rest of this wonderful day.
And a footnote: Bob and Kathryn Callan celebrated their 46th anniversary today. What a great place for all of these celebrations!
Tonight we dined at the hotel, and are back in our room, getting ready for an early start in the morning. Tomorrow - Galway and Enniskillen!
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