At 9:30 this morning, we boarded the ferry from Amalfi to the Isle of Capri. This is a journey of about an hour and a half, and the ferry makes a stop at Positano about a third of the way there. We stayed close to the coastline and the trip was pleasant and cool. We decided today to sit in the interior of the ferry out of the sun - we knew we would be walking around in the heat soon enough! Of course for Tallahassee folks, this heat is definitely bearable. The humidity isn't an issue and there is always a breeze.
The ferry lands at Capri at the Marina Grande, which is a noisy, chaotic place filled with hundreds of tourists, both those from far away, like us, and those who are simply day-trippers, many from just across the bay in Naples. We immediately purchased our tickets for a boat tour around the island, with a stop at the Blue Grotto.
Capri is a pretty impressive rock. Its cliffs are white and towering, its sea caves numerous. Our boat captain gave us just enough information, first in Italian and then in English, to be interesting but not too disruptive. Mostly we just enjoyed the natural wonder of Capri. For centuries it has acted as a kind of sentinel for the mainland, and there are many ancient towers and one very modern lighthouse, all of which serve to warn all comers away from the very forbidding rocks. The marina at which we first landed seemed to be just about the only bit of shoreline that is approachable.
There are one or two spots where our boat could come in very closely so we could see the sea caves. They seem to be fairly young, judging from the stalactites that seemed rather short. Of course, these caves are different from those found on land, as the sea undoubtedly sheers off the stalactite tips with each high tide.
Our captain pointed out one hotel way, way up - 2,000 Euro per night, he said. We also saw a couple of celebrity villas, also perched on the edges of some pretty high cliffs. (We all keep wondering: what does one do about grocery shopping? The answer to that is just an Italian shrug; one shops daily.)
As we approached the Blue Grotto, the captain informed us that there was a two-hour wait to enter. For the hundreds of people waiting in large boats and small, this is pretty normal. Each dinghy that enters the Grotto holds only four people - the math is pretty obvious. We were given the choice to continue on our way, with those who were willing to wait the two hours being brought back to the Grotto. As it happened, only four members of our group decided to wait it out. The rest of us were ready to get back to dry land and start exploring!
Back at the Marina Grande, we decided to head up the mountain to Capri Town via the funicular. This is a small train that runs up and down the mountain pretty much continuously. Funiculars are very common throughout the world in towns with steep inclines - there are several even in America. They are inexpensive (electric) and efficient. We bought our tickets (2 Euro each) and headed to stand in line. After a brief wait and a pretty spectacular ride, we stepped out into Capri Town.
We decided it was time for lunch, and following our tour book, we found a delightful restaurant tucked away in a narrow alley. The proprietor took much pleasure in showing us the photos of celebrities who have eaten there, as disparate as Jerry Springer and Adam Sandler! Sophia Loren still maintains a villa in Capri - but she hasn't made it in for lunch yet.
Capri Town itself is crowded and mostly famous for shopping and extremely expensive stores. We wandered a bit, but decided we would like to check out the other little town on the island, Anacapri. To get there, we bought tickets and boarded a small bus - just eight seats! There were at least 30 people on our bus, standing in every tiny bit of place available. It was hot.
Anacapri proved to be absolutely delightful. Uncrowded, also offering much merchandise for sale (fabulous clothes, beautiful jewelry, sandals made to order for your feet), it also has a few notable venues for the sightseer. In our wandering, we came upon the true WOW of this visit - the Church of San Michele.
This small church has the most remarkable floor. Made entirely of majolica tiles, it depicts the Garden of Eden with all its bounty, and in the center the apple tree, the serpent, and an angel driving Adam and Eve from Paradise. All of the animals have human faces. They are completely disproportionate and not quite accurate - in the 18th century, artists would have had to rely on descriptions from explorers to depict many of the animals of the earth. The lion is the size of a small dog, while a nearby pheasant is about the same size. There is a unicorn. The alligator has ears.
Some of our companions have traveled far more extensively than we, and we all agreed we have never seen a church quite like it. The church has services only at Advent, and no one is ever allowed to walk on the floor. There is a narrow wooden walkway around the edges so visitors can walk around and look at the floor, and a tiny, steep spiral staircase leading to the organ loft from which one can look down on the whole thing. The altar in the church is quite ornate and beautiful, as are the little side chapels - but the floor is just jaw-dropping.
As we were approaching time to catch the ferry back to Amalfi, the five of us in our group agreed that it was time to try a cab. The cabs are such fun - they are open-air, very new vehicles of which their owners are very proud. We bargained a bit with the driver, who agreed to take us all the way to Marina Grande for 25 Euro (five per passenger) which we thought beat that crowded hot bus considerably. What a great ride down the mountain!
We caught the ferry at 5:30 p.m. and were back in Amalfi, hot, tired, and thirsty, by 7:00 p.m. We walked a bit up the main street to a favorite little piazza and tried a new restaurant, which turned out to be excellent. Topping our dinner off with a gelato from the stand next door, we headed for bed.
Tomorrow is our free day - and we will sleep in just a bit! After that, who knows?
Saturday, June 8, 2019
Friday, June 7, 2019
Amalfi Coast - Day 7 - Positano and the Green Grotto
Today we boarded the ferry from Amalfi to Positano, one of the prettiest and most fashionable spots on the Amalfi Coast. Although its primary attractions are shopping and the beach, Positano also boasts a Roman church that presents a number of incongruities. First of all, the small plaza that leads to the doors is decorated with completely contemporary inlaid art. The Church of Santa Maria Assunta began life in the 12th century as a Benedictine monastery, but was abandoned when the entire lower town moved higher because of fear of pirates. When the pirate threat was deemed to be over in the 18th century, the church was given a compete Baroque makeover. Consequently, it is much more ornate than other churches in the region.
There is a marvelous legend surrounding the Byzantine of the Black Madonna which hangs above the altar. While it probably was brought from Constantinople by the monks in the 12th century, locals prefer to think that Saracen pirates had it on their ship as plunder, and in a violent storm, the Madonna spoke to them, saying "posa, posa," (lay me down). The ship glided safely onto the beach and the pirates became Christians. The painting was kept by the locals, and the town was henceforth called Posa-tano (tano meaning town). Today, of course, it is Positano. (Credit to Rick Steves for the info on this story.)
After our tour of the church, we were free to take the 30-minute tour of the archaeological museum, or just to wander on our own. Foregoing the museum for a little exploring, we walked as far as we could go on the beachside promenade, where we enjoyed some beautiful beach scenery. Positano is home to many wealthy people and their beach homes perched high on the hillside are pretty impressive. We checked out some shops; Positano is known for its beautiful linen clothing. Very pricey - thank goodness it cost nothing to look!
We had a leisurely lunch before getting the ferry back to Amalfi, where we rushed to purchase tickets to visit the Emerald Grotto just down the coast near Conca di Marina. While not nearly as impressive as the Blue Grotto at Capri, the Green one was fun. We were entertained by our boatman with a rendition of "It's Now or Never," partially in English but mostly in Italian. Music echoes quite well in this cave by the sea!
Back in Amalfi, we rested a bit before meeting our guide to Amalfi Town at 5:00 p.m. This gentleman was quite entertaining, sharing little local stories and quite a bit of history. He is very proud of his town (not surprisingly) and certainly shared some history that we did not know. For instance, poor old Flavio Gioia, who has two separate parks named for him, not to mention a pretty impressive statue, actually never existed at all. Apparently the methods of recording history all those centuries ago resembled the modern game of Gossip; by the time the books had been revised a few times, Flavio had been invented. Not surprising that every single little town along the Amalfi Coast claims him as their most famous citizen!
Such a long day - lots of fun, but pretty exhausting. After a lovely dinner with friends at one of our favorite local restaurants, we are planning an early bedtime. Tomorrow - the Isle of Capri!
There is a marvelous legend surrounding the Byzantine of the Black Madonna which hangs above the altar. While it probably was brought from Constantinople by the monks in the 12th century, locals prefer to think that Saracen pirates had it on their ship as plunder, and in a violent storm, the Madonna spoke to them, saying "posa, posa," (lay me down). The ship glided safely onto the beach and the pirates became Christians. The painting was kept by the locals, and the town was henceforth called Posa-tano (tano meaning town). Today, of course, it is Positano. (Credit to Rick Steves for the info on this story.)
After our tour of the church, we were free to take the 30-minute tour of the archaeological museum, or just to wander on our own. Foregoing the museum for a little exploring, we walked as far as we could go on the beachside promenade, where we enjoyed some beautiful beach scenery. Positano is home to many wealthy people and their beach homes perched high on the hillside are pretty impressive. We checked out some shops; Positano is known for its beautiful linen clothing. Very pricey - thank goodness it cost nothing to look!
We had a leisurely lunch before getting the ferry back to Amalfi, where we rushed to purchase tickets to visit the Emerald Grotto just down the coast near Conca di Marina. While not nearly as impressive as the Blue Grotto at Capri, the Green one was fun. We were entertained by our boatman with a rendition of "It's Now or Never," partially in English but mostly in Italian. Music echoes quite well in this cave by the sea!
Back in Amalfi, we rested a bit before meeting our guide to Amalfi Town at 5:00 p.m. This gentleman was quite entertaining, sharing little local stories and quite a bit of history. He is very proud of his town (not surprisingly) and certainly shared some history that we did not know. For instance, poor old Flavio Gioia, who has two separate parks named for him, not to mention a pretty impressive statue, actually never existed at all. Apparently the methods of recording history all those centuries ago resembled the modern game of Gossip; by the time the books had been revised a few times, Flavio had been invented. Not surprising that every single little town along the Amalfi Coast claims him as their most famous citizen!
Such a long day - lots of fun, but pretty exhausting. After a lovely dinner with friends at one of our favorite local restaurants, we are planning an early bedtime. Tomorrow - the Isle of Capri!
Thursday, June 6, 2019
Amalfi Coast - Day 6 - Paestum
The word that comes to mind is "awe." We've never been to Greece, so we have no point of reference with which to compare what we saw today in Paestum. Suffice it to say that we were absolutely gobsmacked.
Settled by Greek immigrants from Sicily almost a thousand years before the birth of Christ, Paestum was a thriving city for several centuries before the marshes and their accompanying mosquitoes and malaria drove them away. The land continued to be fertile farming territory, and Romans soon settled there, leaving some of the temples but generally building on top of the homes and businesses once occupied by Greek citizens.
As the Romans, too, realized that the flat, waterlogged plain very close to the Mediterranean Sea was susceptible to floods and seaquakes, they also abandoned the town to move to higher ground. Over the intervening centuries, Paestum vanished even from memory.
When, in the 17th century, the ruins were discovered and excavations were begun, there was only mild interest. Not until the Grand Tours of the 18th century did the wealthy and educated begin to be excited about the treasures beneath the soil. Early archaeologists flocked to the site. [Note: Mussolini was so proud of this unique place that he had eucalyptus trees planted just within the city walls to help fight the mosquito population. This we learned from our guide, who made an appropriate face while reluctantly giving Mussolini his due.]
Paestum today has the oldest and most perfectly preserved Greek temples anywhere in the areas of Greek expansion, and the finest example north of Sicily. Between the north and south ends of the old city where stand three magnificent artifacts, there are Roman ruins. These are, for the most part, simply foundations of houses and shops, with a small amphitheater and a largish forum. Having visited Pompeii earlier in the week, we were able to see pretty clearly the outlines of the parts of a typical home, and also see the difference between those ruins and those of the shops.
It's hard to describe the reaction to getting off our bus and walking just a few yards towards the city walls and suddenly seeing the Temple of Ceres (which is actually thought to be a Temple of Athena). Greek architects worked with enormous blocks of stone that fitted together almost seamlessly, relying on their weight for stability. Not until Roman times was cement used. The towering columns and near-intact facades still stand silently as they have done for nearly 3,000 years. At the south end of the town stand the Temple of Hera I and the Temple of Hera II.
Paestum is a bit off the normal tourist track - a bit farther and a bit less publicized than Pompeii. The result is an immensely gratifying experience. We were the only tour group on the site this morning, and instead of the thousands who pushed and shoved their way through Pompeii, we found only a few single visitors on the grounds. Our absolutely delightful and extremely well-educated guide, Filomena, led us at a steady pace through the portion of the town that has been excavated, unhurriedly and undisturbed. What a contrast!
After walking the perimeter of Paestum, we exited through one of the four city gates and headed towards the museum. This small and extremely well-curated museum is a jewel. It is filled with the actual artifacts recovered from the excavations. We can see what we once did not know: Greeks used colors and shading in all of their crafts, from the humblest amphora used to store wine or grain to the most beautifully decorated vases. A statute of Jupiter recovered from the ruins of the Temple of Hera II actually sports a painted beard.
The prize discovery from this site, not found until 1968, is the four sides of the interior of a tomb and its roof. Called the Tomb of the Diver, the slabs of stone recovered are covered with sophisticated art, much of which is still being studied. These are are believed to be the only such artifacts ever recovered from a Greek tomb, and they are absolutely stunning. Filomena was justifiably proud to spend some extra time with us, explaining the symbols and story line of the paintings.
Today was by far the biggest WOW of the tour so far. As we returned to Amalfi on our private bus, we were all processing what we had seen and what we had learned. This ancient site should be on the list of every traveler who comes to the Amalfi Coast - but hurry. Sadly, it might become another Pompeii.
Tomorrow, Positano and the Emerald Grotto via boat. Now we will see the coast from the sea instead of the land, which is said to be an entirely different experience!
Settled by Greek immigrants from Sicily almost a thousand years before the birth of Christ, Paestum was a thriving city for several centuries before the marshes and their accompanying mosquitoes and malaria drove them away. The land continued to be fertile farming territory, and Romans soon settled there, leaving some of the temples but generally building on top of the homes and businesses once occupied by Greek citizens.
As the Romans, too, realized that the flat, waterlogged plain very close to the Mediterranean Sea was susceptible to floods and seaquakes, they also abandoned the town to move to higher ground. Over the intervening centuries, Paestum vanished even from memory.
When, in the 17th century, the ruins were discovered and excavations were begun, there was only mild interest. Not until the Grand Tours of the 18th century did the wealthy and educated begin to be excited about the treasures beneath the soil. Early archaeologists flocked to the site. [Note: Mussolini was so proud of this unique place that he had eucalyptus trees planted just within the city walls to help fight the mosquito population. This we learned from our guide, who made an appropriate face while reluctantly giving Mussolini his due.]
Paestum today has the oldest and most perfectly preserved Greek temples anywhere in the areas of Greek expansion, and the finest example north of Sicily. Between the north and south ends of the old city where stand three magnificent artifacts, there are Roman ruins. These are, for the most part, simply foundations of houses and shops, with a small amphitheater and a largish forum. Having visited Pompeii earlier in the week, we were able to see pretty clearly the outlines of the parts of a typical home, and also see the difference between those ruins and those of the shops.
It's hard to describe the reaction to getting off our bus and walking just a few yards towards the city walls and suddenly seeing the Temple of Ceres (which is actually thought to be a Temple of Athena). Greek architects worked with enormous blocks of stone that fitted together almost seamlessly, relying on their weight for stability. Not until Roman times was cement used. The towering columns and near-intact facades still stand silently as they have done for nearly 3,000 years. At the south end of the town stand the Temple of Hera I and the Temple of Hera II.
Paestum is a bit off the normal tourist track - a bit farther and a bit less publicized than Pompeii. The result is an immensely gratifying experience. We were the only tour group on the site this morning, and instead of the thousands who pushed and shoved their way through Pompeii, we found only a few single visitors on the grounds. Our absolutely delightful and extremely well-educated guide, Filomena, led us at a steady pace through the portion of the town that has been excavated, unhurriedly and undisturbed. What a contrast!
After walking the perimeter of Paestum, we exited through one of the four city gates and headed towards the museum. This small and extremely well-curated museum is a jewel. It is filled with the actual artifacts recovered from the excavations. We can see what we once did not know: Greeks used colors and shading in all of their crafts, from the humblest amphora used to store wine or grain to the most beautifully decorated vases. A statute of Jupiter recovered from the ruins of the Temple of Hera II actually sports a painted beard.
The prize discovery from this site, not found until 1968, is the four sides of the interior of a tomb and its roof. Called the Tomb of the Diver, the slabs of stone recovered are covered with sophisticated art, much of which is still being studied. These are are believed to be the only such artifacts ever recovered from a Greek tomb, and they are absolutely stunning. Filomena was justifiably proud to spend some extra time with us, explaining the symbols and story line of the paintings.
Today was by far the biggest WOW of the tour so far. As we returned to Amalfi on our private bus, we were all processing what we had seen and what we had learned. This ancient site should be on the list of every traveler who comes to the Amalfi Coast - but hurry. Sadly, it might become another Pompeii.
Tomorrow, Positano and the Emerald Grotto via boat. Now we will see the coast from the sea instead of the land, which is said to be an entirely different experience!
Wednesday, June 5, 2019
The Amalfi Coast - Day 5 - Ravello
Today we hopped on a public bus and headed up the mountain to the village of Ravello.
[An aside here about transportation along the Amalfi Coast: there are public buses that have a schedule, and each day they start out pretty well. For instance, today we were catching the 9:15 a.m. bus, and it arrived at the bus stop more or less on time. For the return trip, we were planning on a 2:15 p.m. bus, but our group gave up somewhere between 2:30 and 3:00 p.m. and journeyed back down the mountain in a couple of cabs. A few folks caught the 1:00 p.m. which actually arrived in the vicinity of 1:00 p.m.; by 2:15, all semblance of a schedule apparently had been abandoned. This is not the fault of the bus drivers, or even the passengers. The actual road is the culprit - the road and other drivers. In at least two places the road narrows to one lane, and there are actual traffic signals at a particular curve where traffic backs up one way to let the other line through, and vice-versa. While this seems odd to the American tourist, it does work. At least we haven't seen any actual crashes. However, it does wreak havoc with the timetable. We have heard tales of buses getting stuck because there was just that one inch of space where a driver made a terrible judgment call. Needless to say, schedules are actually just suggestions.
Another funny quirk which I think is quite common in mountainous areas across Europe: the bus driver gives a blast on his horn as he approaches a blind curve, or even an iffy intersection. This works. I've wondered what it must sound like to an approaching car, as the horn sounds more like a train than anything else. And about the cars: they are cars. Mostly little cars. It has now been five days since I have seen a pickup truck, or even a small SUV.]
Back to Ravello: This is a lovely little town perched very high on the mountainside. The community hosts an international music festival every summer (sadly, after we are to be back in the U.S.), with a pretty impressive lineup of stars. The locals are quite proud of the long line of celebrities who have visited and fallen in love with the town. Gore Vidal owned a villa here, as did Richard Wagner, who found the inspiration for "Parsifal" in the terraced gardens of the Villa Rufulo. The Villa is now open for tours and the gardens are spectacular, even in early summer.
Ravello also boasts a cathedral that is Romanesque, quite plain when compared to some of the later, more ornate churches. Its mosaics are stunning and the Byzantine influence is everywhere. The cathedral and the Villa sit side by side, a fascinating blend of sacred and secular.
Upon our return to Amalfi and after a brief rest, we had time to visit the cathedral which sits just up the street from our hotel. We have passed through the piazza numerous times while we've been here, but this was the first chance we had to go in. The cathedral's entrance is at the top of a broad staircase which functions for this village much the way the Spanish Steps do in Rome. Convenient resting places are occupied by locals and tourists alike, some snacking, some sketching, some just watching the passing throng.
The interior of the Amalfi Duomo is far more ornate than the Ravello church, although still not as overwhelming as those we have seen in Rome and Florence or even eastern Europe. The ceiling of the church is quite beautiful and shows the beginnings of the practice of displaying fine art that is so far above the floor that only God can see it.
We lingered in the piazza after our church visit for a drink and conversation, then proceeded to dinner at a restaurant featuring lemon trees with lemons hanging through the latticed covering over the outdoor tables - a truly memorable meal.
Tomorrow we visit Paestum, the most well-preserved Greek town north of Sicily. We have the Romans to thank for this: they never disturbed religious structures or burial grounds, reasoning that as long as their conquered subjects followed the rules of the emperor, they were entitled to their own customs. The town simply withered away and was forgotten until the 18th century, when it was rediscovered and somewhat excavated and preserved. This will be our chance to see the Greek foundations of the Roman architecture we observed in Pompeii.
Paestum is some distance from Amalfi Town, so tomorrow will be a long day.
[An aside here about transportation along the Amalfi Coast: there are public buses that have a schedule, and each day they start out pretty well. For instance, today we were catching the 9:15 a.m. bus, and it arrived at the bus stop more or less on time. For the return trip, we were planning on a 2:15 p.m. bus, but our group gave up somewhere between 2:30 and 3:00 p.m. and journeyed back down the mountain in a couple of cabs. A few folks caught the 1:00 p.m. which actually arrived in the vicinity of 1:00 p.m.; by 2:15, all semblance of a schedule apparently had been abandoned. This is not the fault of the bus drivers, or even the passengers. The actual road is the culprit - the road and other drivers. In at least two places the road narrows to one lane, and there are actual traffic signals at a particular curve where traffic backs up one way to let the other line through, and vice-versa. While this seems odd to the American tourist, it does work. At least we haven't seen any actual crashes. However, it does wreak havoc with the timetable. We have heard tales of buses getting stuck because there was just that one inch of space where a driver made a terrible judgment call. Needless to say, schedules are actually just suggestions.
Another funny quirk which I think is quite common in mountainous areas across Europe: the bus driver gives a blast on his horn as he approaches a blind curve, or even an iffy intersection. This works. I've wondered what it must sound like to an approaching car, as the horn sounds more like a train than anything else. And about the cars: they are cars. Mostly little cars. It has now been five days since I have seen a pickup truck, or even a small SUV.]
Back to Ravello: This is a lovely little town perched very high on the mountainside. The community hosts an international music festival every summer (sadly, after we are to be back in the U.S.), with a pretty impressive lineup of stars. The locals are quite proud of the long line of celebrities who have visited and fallen in love with the town. Gore Vidal owned a villa here, as did Richard Wagner, who found the inspiration for "Parsifal" in the terraced gardens of the Villa Rufulo. The Villa is now open for tours and the gardens are spectacular, even in early summer.
Ravello also boasts a cathedral that is Romanesque, quite plain when compared to some of the later, more ornate churches. Its mosaics are stunning and the Byzantine influence is everywhere. The cathedral and the Villa sit side by side, a fascinating blend of sacred and secular.
Upon our return to Amalfi and after a brief rest, we had time to visit the cathedral which sits just up the street from our hotel. We have passed through the piazza numerous times while we've been here, but this was the first chance we had to go in. The cathedral's entrance is at the top of a broad staircase which functions for this village much the way the Spanish Steps do in Rome. Convenient resting places are occupied by locals and tourists alike, some snacking, some sketching, some just watching the passing throng.
The interior of the Amalfi Duomo is far more ornate than the Ravello church, although still not as overwhelming as those we have seen in Rome and Florence or even eastern Europe. The ceiling of the church is quite beautiful and shows the beginnings of the practice of displaying fine art that is so far above the floor that only God can see it.
We lingered in the piazza after our church visit for a drink and conversation, then proceeded to dinner at a restaurant featuring lemon trees with lemons hanging through the latticed covering over the outdoor tables - a truly memorable meal.
Tomorrow we visit Paestum, the most well-preserved Greek town north of Sicily. We have the Romans to thank for this: they never disturbed religious structures or burial grounds, reasoning that as long as their conquered subjects followed the rules of the emperor, they were entitled to their own customs. The town simply withered away and was forgotten until the 18th century, when it was rediscovered and somewhat excavated and preserved. This will be our chance to see the Greek foundations of the Roman architecture we observed in Pompeii.
Paestum is some distance from Amalfi Town, so tomorrow will be a long day.
Tuesday, June 4, 2019
Amalfi Coast - Day 4 - Pompeii
I first visited Pompeii 45 years ago. Then the ancient ghost city was almost deserted in the late afternoon when we arrived; there were no pedestrian sidewalks, no gift kiosks, no gelato stands. We wandered at will, looking into the ruins of houses and marveling at the plaster casts of bodies caught at the moment of death, mouths open in silent screams, limbs twisted, even a mother covering the body of her child.
This wasn't actually disappointing, but I'm glad I saw it when I did, back in the early '70s. That memory still is transcendent to me.
Our trip, including time on the bus, took about six hours, so we were back in our hotel by midafternoon. After a brief toes-up, we ventured out to just wander. Looking for a few small things to bring home with us, we poked our heads into a small paper shop and a donkey store.
Paper, as I have mentioned, is very important in Amalfi Town. There is really only one actual paper manufacturing operation nowadays, but paper-making was once a thriving cottage industry here. Amalfians are quite proud of their beautiful papers, which they bind into journals, make into delicate cards, and use to fashion wonderful hats. The little shop we explored was our favorite kind in Europe - tiny, a little dark, and mostly deserted. The very nice lady who took our money and wrapped our purchase threw in a little scratch pad decorated with lemons. Have I mentioned that the Amalfi Coast is the lemon capital of the world? This, no matter what Minute Maid might have to say about it.
Donkeys are also a big deal. Real live donkeys are still used to haul building materials and other goods from suppliers to the villages. There are winding trails that no motorized vehicle of any size could maneuver, and the donkeys are still the most efficient tools available. We have seen a number of them standing patiently by the roadside being loaded or unloaded. Consequently, the donkey is pretty much the Amalfi spirit animal, and they appear on everything from cups and plates to marvelous avant garde works of art costing many hundreds of Euros. We now are the proud owners of two donkey coasters and a little sheet telling the story of the donkey in both Italian and English. (The proprietor of the donkey store is prepared for most of the tourists who swarm these narrow streets.)
After our leisurely shopping, we chose a little sidewalk taverna where we had a coffee (me) and a beer (the hubs.) The entrance to the little bar was framed in small lemon trees. We sat outside and just took in the passing crowd. When we were rested, we walked back to our hotel, joining OLLI friends for a lovely dinner, then to bed. Tomorrow, Ravello!
- Today we visited the same Pompeii, but so different. First, there were at least 10,000 other folks there at the same time. The very narrow streets were packed with live humans. We had to wait in line just to gaze into the windows of what was once a house, or a shop, or a brothel. The plaster casts are all in acrylic cases behind a fence. Many of the homes are closed to tourists; many of the remaining columns are encased in metal supports, so weak that the danger of their falling has made the protection necessary.
This wasn't actually disappointing, but I'm glad I saw it when I did, back in the early '70s. That memory still is transcendent to me.
Our trip, including time on the bus, took about six hours, so we were back in our hotel by midafternoon. After a brief toes-up, we ventured out to just wander. Looking for a few small things to bring home with us, we poked our heads into a small paper shop and a donkey store.
Paper, as I have mentioned, is very important in Amalfi Town. There is really only one actual paper manufacturing operation nowadays, but paper-making was once a thriving cottage industry here. Amalfians are quite proud of their beautiful papers, which they bind into journals, make into delicate cards, and use to fashion wonderful hats. The little shop we explored was our favorite kind in Europe - tiny, a little dark, and mostly deserted. The very nice lady who took our money and wrapped our purchase threw in a little scratch pad decorated with lemons. Have I mentioned that the Amalfi Coast is the lemon capital of the world? This, no matter what Minute Maid might have to say about it.
Donkeys are also a big deal. Real live donkeys are still used to haul building materials and other goods from suppliers to the villages. There are winding trails that no motorized vehicle of any size could maneuver, and the donkeys are still the most efficient tools available. We have seen a number of them standing patiently by the roadside being loaded or unloaded. Consequently, the donkey is pretty much the Amalfi spirit animal, and they appear on everything from cups and plates to marvelous avant garde works of art costing many hundreds of Euros. We now are the proud owners of two donkey coasters and a little sheet telling the story of the donkey in both Italian and English. (The proprietor of the donkey store is prepared for most of the tourists who swarm these narrow streets.)
After our leisurely shopping, we chose a little sidewalk taverna where we had a coffee (me) and a beer (the hubs.) The entrance to the little bar was framed in small lemon trees. We sat outside and just took in the passing crowd. When we were rested, we walked back to our hotel, joining OLLI friends for a lovely dinner, then to bed. Tomorrow, Ravello!
Monday, June 3, 2019
A Walking Tour of the Amalfi Coast - Day 3 - Monday
After some very restorative sleep, we headed downstairs to the beautiful dining room here at the Hotel Residence for breakfast. So much delicious food! We love breakfast in Europe because there are always wonderful, unusual fruits and fabulous coffee.
Meeting across the street from the hotel on the promenade that overlooks the beach and the sea promptly at 9:00 a.m., we began our day as we usually do on these OLLI trips with a brief lecture from our wonderful instructor, Bill Walter. As a humanities teacher, a studio artist, and a maker of fine paper, Bill's knowledge and skills are perfect for this part of the world. Amalfi was once home to many paper mills and some beautiful paper and paper artisanal products are still made here. There's even a paper museum!
We started, as Bill often does, with a discussion of color: the history of the use of color made from natural materials and the significance of some colors in ancient civilizations and in many religious practices. We have all been given some color samples (as well as drawings of various types of crosses and different architectural details), and we will look for examples of all of these as we tour around the Amalfi Coast.
We walked all the way to the end of the jetty that stretches some yards out into the Mediterranean. Here private boats are waiting for the day's customers. These are small boats (we even saw a cigarette boat) whose owners offer passengers a tour of the waters along the coast, providing a perspective of the towns from a truly different angle. Along the edges of the jetty are gigantic stone objects that are manufactured to create a breakwater protecting the structure from the fury of the sea. They look like giant jacks straight from a monster child's game - all that is missing is a huge bouncy ball. We learned that these are made in this shape quite purposefully; they don't roll with the tide at all.
Bill led the group on a walk through a portion of the town that gave us a bit of a different view, through some small piazzas and, of course, up and down inclines and stairways. These narrow passageways are actually the streets and alleys of the neighborhoods in Amalfi. There are no yards or lawns or gardens (although many may have internal atriums or garden areas, and there are many rooftop gardens at the highest levels.) All I can think of is one would never buy many items at any store simply because they would have to be hauled up and down so many stairs!
We had ample time for lunch, which we enjoyed with friends, and after a brief rest period we set out to visit the little town of Atrani, just south and around a huge rock outcropping from Amalfi. The plan was to take a city bus; after a lot of waiting and missing a couple of buses (they fill quickly), the hubs and I decided to walk. The trip entailed hundreds of steps up and around and through the streets and alleys to the very top of the outcropping, then just as many steps down the other side to the little town. What a challenge! We figured, with the help of our trusty Fitbits, that this gave us at least 5,000 extra steps today. THEN - after a look around Atrani and a beer for the hubs and a Prosecco for me (because some sort of reward seemed appropriate), we walked back. This time we took the lower route, which is much less strenuous but a lot more frightening - part of the walk entailed our hugging the railing along the main road while cars and buses roared by inches away. Pedestrians get very little respect here.
And then, after another little rest, dinner. What a treat! We tried one of Rick Steves' recommended restaurants, Taverna degli Apostoli (Tavern of the Apostles). It nestles just under the watchful eye of the cathedral, and probably was part of the cloister at one time. It certainly functioned as an art gallery in the first half of the 20th century, and has been operated by the same family as a restaurant since 1952. A small dining room (upstairs, of course) with art-covered walls and quiet jazz music, was a perfect setting for a remarkable meal with good friends.
Now, to bed. We have an early start tomorrow, when we will visit Pompeii.
Meeting across the street from the hotel on the promenade that overlooks the beach and the sea promptly at 9:00 a.m., we began our day as we usually do on these OLLI trips with a brief lecture from our wonderful instructor, Bill Walter. As a humanities teacher, a studio artist, and a maker of fine paper, Bill's knowledge and skills are perfect for this part of the world. Amalfi was once home to many paper mills and some beautiful paper and paper artisanal products are still made here. There's even a paper museum!
We started, as Bill often does, with a discussion of color: the history of the use of color made from natural materials and the significance of some colors in ancient civilizations and in many religious practices. We have all been given some color samples (as well as drawings of various types of crosses and different architectural details), and we will look for examples of all of these as we tour around the Amalfi Coast.
We walked all the way to the end of the jetty that stretches some yards out into the Mediterranean. Here private boats are waiting for the day's customers. These are small boats (we even saw a cigarette boat) whose owners offer passengers a tour of the waters along the coast, providing a perspective of the towns from a truly different angle. Along the edges of the jetty are gigantic stone objects that are manufactured to create a breakwater protecting the structure from the fury of the sea. They look like giant jacks straight from a monster child's game - all that is missing is a huge bouncy ball. We learned that these are made in this shape quite purposefully; they don't roll with the tide at all.
Bill led the group on a walk through a portion of the town that gave us a bit of a different view, through some small piazzas and, of course, up and down inclines and stairways. These narrow passageways are actually the streets and alleys of the neighborhoods in Amalfi. There are no yards or lawns or gardens (although many may have internal atriums or garden areas, and there are many rooftop gardens at the highest levels.) All I can think of is one would never buy many items at any store simply because they would have to be hauled up and down so many stairs!
We had ample time for lunch, which we enjoyed with friends, and after a brief rest period we set out to visit the little town of Atrani, just south and around a huge rock outcropping from Amalfi. The plan was to take a city bus; after a lot of waiting and missing a couple of buses (they fill quickly), the hubs and I decided to walk. The trip entailed hundreds of steps up and around and through the streets and alleys to the very top of the outcropping, then just as many steps down the other side to the little town. What a challenge! We figured, with the help of our trusty Fitbits, that this gave us at least 5,000 extra steps today. THEN - after a look around Atrani and a beer for the hubs and a Prosecco for me (because some sort of reward seemed appropriate), we walked back. This time we took the lower route, which is much less strenuous but a lot more frightening - part of the walk entailed our hugging the railing along the main road while cars and buses roared by inches away. Pedestrians get very little respect here.
And then, after another little rest, dinner. What a treat! We tried one of Rick Steves' recommended restaurants, Taverna degli Apostoli (Tavern of the Apostles). It nestles just under the watchful eye of the cathedral, and probably was part of the cloister at one time. It certainly functioned as an art gallery in the first half of the 20th century, and has been operated by the same family as a restaurant since 1952. A small dining room (upstairs, of course) with art-covered walls and quiet jazz music, was a perfect setting for a remarkable meal with good friends.
Now, to bed. We have an early start tomorrow, when we will visit Pompeii.
Sunday, June 2, 2019
OLLI Study Abroad, A Walking Tour of the Amalfi Coast - Days 1 and 2 - Travel and arrival
Traveling from Tallahassee to the small village of Amalfi in southern Italy isn't easy. Anyone who lives in the southeastern United States knows that it is almost impossible to fly out of that part of the country without changing planes in Atlanta. To Atlanta's credit, throughout the years the folks in charge of the airport have made constant improvements mostly focused on the efficient movement of people. As a result, Atlanta has one of the best, most people-friendly operations in the world. Unfortunately, the leg from north Florida to north Georgia was not only the easiest, but also the shortest.
We flew from Atlanta to Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris. We've flown into and through Charles de Gaulle on two previous occasions, and the unpleasant memories from those experiences were pretty good predictors - it's still huge, crowded, and seemingly designed by an architect with a weird sense of humor. After 3000 steps as measured by my Fitbit to get from one gate to another - and keeping in mind that by the time we boarded for our flight to Naples we had been awake just about exactly 27 hours - we were definitely not in our best moods.
[A side note here: the flight from ATL to CDG is around eight hours. That included, this time, one large meal, one smaller meal, and two walks up and down the aisles to the restroom and beyond. The remainder of the time, we watched movies. AND - I watched what I believe to be the best movie of the year and maybe of the decade, "Bohemian Rhapsody." The hubs had to restrain me a time or two - I think maybe my rendition of "We are the Champions" could be heard over the engine noise.]
Our little band of pilgrims was met in Naples by a young woman who loaded us onto a large bus for the trip to Amalfi. Think of every trip you've ever made on a narrow mountain road with multiple hairpin turns; add to that the fact that the road is ONE lane; add to that the fact that Italian drivers park just about anywhere that's convenient, including at the side of this one-lane road that has a sheer rock face on one side and a tiny guardrail on the other and no shoulders; and then multiply the length of the trip by a factor of about five. Add several tunnels that actually felt like safe havens in that they didn't feature a 500-foot plunge into the Mediterranean immediately outside our side of the bus, and add the cheery sound of the bus driver blowing his horn as he plunged around blind curves, and you will understand how the five-Euro tip we gave him seemed like a payment well-earned. Suffice it to say that most of us came off that bus with some alacrity when we finally reached our destination.
And what a destination it is. A beautiful small village with its city center just a few feet from the emerald Mediterranean waters, Amalfi stole our hearts. We are in a small hotel where we occupy 12 or so of the 29 rooms, each room with either a view of the sea or the city's main piazza. After we got settled in our rooms, we walked up one of the main streets (and in this part of the world, there is only up and down for streets), looking into shop windows and checking out restaurants.
We sat in the piazza and ate pizza, with a little glass of house red for me and a Peroni draft for the hubs, then walked back to the gelato shop just outside the hotel for a scoop of creamy lemon in a waffle cone.
And so to bed. Tomorrow - a walking history lecture from our instructor, then sketching and a visit to Atrani. The weather is wonderful, and once we close our eyes for a few hours, we will be off again!
We flew from Atlanta to Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris. We've flown into and through Charles de Gaulle on two previous occasions, and the unpleasant memories from those experiences were pretty good predictors - it's still huge, crowded, and seemingly designed by an architect with a weird sense of humor. After 3000 steps as measured by my Fitbit to get from one gate to another - and keeping in mind that by the time we boarded for our flight to Naples we had been awake just about exactly 27 hours - we were definitely not in our best moods.
[A side note here: the flight from ATL to CDG is around eight hours. That included, this time, one large meal, one smaller meal, and two walks up and down the aisles to the restroom and beyond. The remainder of the time, we watched movies. AND - I watched what I believe to be the best movie of the year and maybe of the decade, "Bohemian Rhapsody." The hubs had to restrain me a time or two - I think maybe my rendition of "We are the Champions" could be heard over the engine noise.]
Our little band of pilgrims was met in Naples by a young woman who loaded us onto a large bus for the trip to Amalfi. Think of every trip you've ever made on a narrow mountain road with multiple hairpin turns; add to that the fact that the road is ONE lane; add to that the fact that Italian drivers park just about anywhere that's convenient, including at the side of this one-lane road that has a sheer rock face on one side and a tiny guardrail on the other and no shoulders; and then multiply the length of the trip by a factor of about five. Add several tunnels that actually felt like safe havens in that they didn't feature a 500-foot plunge into the Mediterranean immediately outside our side of the bus, and add the cheery sound of the bus driver blowing his horn as he plunged around blind curves, and you will understand how the five-Euro tip we gave him seemed like a payment well-earned. Suffice it to say that most of us came off that bus with some alacrity when we finally reached our destination.
And what a destination it is. A beautiful small village with its city center just a few feet from the emerald Mediterranean waters, Amalfi stole our hearts. We are in a small hotel where we occupy 12 or so of the 29 rooms, each room with either a view of the sea or the city's main piazza. After we got settled in our rooms, we walked up one of the main streets (and in this part of the world, there is only up and down for streets), looking into shop windows and checking out restaurants.
We sat in the piazza and ate pizza, with a little glass of house red for me and a Peroni draft for the hubs, then walked back to the gelato shop just outside the hotel for a scoop of creamy lemon in a waffle cone.
And so to bed. Tomorrow - a walking history lecture from our instructor, then sketching and a visit to Atrani. The weather is wonderful, and once we close our eyes for a few hours, we will be off again!
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