Amalfi Coast - Day 6 - Paestum

The word that comes to mind is "awe." We've never been to Greece, so we have no point of reference with which to compare what we saw today in Paestum. Suffice it to say that we were absolutely gobsmacked.

Settled by Greek immigrants from Sicily almost a thousand years before the birth of Christ, Paestum was a thriving city for several centuries before the marshes and their accompanying mosquitoes and malaria drove them away.  The land continued to be fertile farming territory, and Romans soon settled there, leaving some of the temples but generally building on top of the homes and businesses once occupied by Greek citizens.

As the Romans, too, realized that the flat, waterlogged plain very close to the Mediterranean Sea was susceptible to floods and seaquakes, they also abandoned the town to move to higher ground. Over the intervening centuries, Paestum vanished even from memory.

When, in the 17th century, the ruins were discovered and excavations were begun, there was only mild interest. Not until the Grand Tours of the 18th century did the wealthy and educated begin to be excited about the treasures beneath the soil. Early archaeologists flocked to the site. [Note: Mussolini was so proud of this unique place that he had eucalyptus trees planted just within the city walls to help fight the mosquito population. This we learned from our guide, who made an appropriate face while reluctantly giving Mussolini his due.]

Paestum today has the oldest and most perfectly preserved Greek temples anywhere in the areas of Greek expansion, and the finest example north of Sicily.  Between the north and south ends of the old city where stand three magnificent artifacts, there are Roman ruins. These are, for the most part, simply foundations of houses and shops, with a small amphitheater and a largish forum. Having visited Pompeii earlier in the week, we were able to see pretty clearly the outlines of the parts of a typical home, and also see the difference between those ruins and those of the shops.

It's hard to describe the reaction to getting off our bus and walking just a few yards towards the city walls and suddenly seeing the Temple of Ceres (which is actually thought to be a Temple of Athena). Greek architects worked with enormous blocks of stone that fitted together almost seamlessly, relying on their weight for stability.  Not until Roman times was cement used. The towering columns and near-intact facades still stand silently as they have done for nearly 3,000 years. At the south end of the town stand the Temple of Hera I and the Temple of Hera II.

Paestum is a bit off the normal tourist track - a bit farther and a bit less publicized than Pompeii. The result is an immensely gratifying experience.  We were the only tour group on the site this morning, and instead of the thousands who pushed and shoved their way through Pompeii, we found only a few single visitors on the grounds.  Our absolutely delightful and extremely well-educated guide, Filomena, led us at a steady pace through the portion of the town that has been excavated, unhurriedly and undisturbed. What a contrast!

After walking the perimeter of Paestum, we exited through one of the four city gates and headed towards the museum. This small and extremely well-curated museum is a jewel. It is filled with the actual artifacts recovered from the excavations. We can see what we once did not know: Greeks used colors and shading in all of their crafts, from the humblest amphora used to store wine or grain to the most beautifully decorated vases. A statute of Jupiter recovered from the ruins of the Temple of Hera II actually sports a painted beard.

The prize discovery from this site, not found until 1968, is the four sides of the interior of a tomb and its roof.  Called the Tomb of the Diver, the slabs of stone recovered are covered with sophisticated art, much of which is still being studied. These are are believed to be the only such artifacts ever recovered from a Greek tomb, and they are absolutely stunning.  Filomena was justifiably proud to spend some extra time with us, explaining the symbols and story line of the paintings.

Today was by far the biggest WOW of the tour so far. As we returned to Amalfi on our private bus, we were all processing what we had seen and what we had learned. This ancient site should be on the list of every traveler who comes to the Amalfi Coast - but hurry. Sadly, it might become another Pompeii.

Tomorrow, Positano and the Emerald Grotto via boat. Now we will see the coast from the sea instead of the land, which is said to be an entirely different experience!