June 13, 2015 - Montjuic

I have figured something out - the FIRST place to go in Barcelona is Montjuic. We have gone about this a little backwards. What an amazing place!

But backing up a little - we slept in this morning, then set out to take the elevator to the top of the Cathedral. We figured that Saturday morning would be a relatively uncrowded time, and that proved to be true. Five of our group loaded into the lift, at three Euros apiece (a bargain), then climbed a few steps through the scaffolding erected to protect the roof and there we were - above the rooftops, looking towards Montjuic and the sea and Tibidabo immediately behind us. What a beautiful view! I only hope my photos do it justice, as my camera is modest and my photo skills are limited.

Three of us then ventured up to Via Laetana where we caught a cab, complete with friendly driver, to the Miro museum about halfway up the hill of Montjuic. Montjuic, which means "Mount of the Jews," isn't really a mountain, but it's a very large hill overlooking the harbor of Barcelona. Many of Barcelona's iconic architectural masterpieces have been built of stone quarried from Montjuic, from the Cathedral to the Gaudi houses. The Church of Santa Maria del Mar, built by the citizens of the neighborhood, used stone carried by individuals from Montjuic - on their days off from work, which in medieval times were more like just a few hours. Montjuic today is the site of both the beautiful Miro museum, which is quite modern and new, and the National Museum of Catalan Art, which is housed in a beautiful castle.

Montjuic was also the site chosen to be the center of the 1992 Olympics held in Barcelona. Consequently, it is home to Olympic sports venues, and it is quite beautiful. There are fountains and waterfalls flowing from the plaza of the Catalan art museum all the way down to the Plaza Espanya; there are massive steps and columns and gardens and just about every possible enhancement one could imagine that would appeal to an international crowd attending the Olympic Games. Across the boulevard from the Plaza Espanya is the former bullfighting venue of Barcelona, which is now a shopping mall. Catalans have decided that bullfighting is inhumane (and I must agree) and have banned it throughout the region.

The Miro museum was interesting - but the Catalan art museum was absolutely breathtaking. We are very sorry that we didn't begin our day there and stay for many hours. We were able to see only a fraction of the art it holds, and wish we had many more days to spend in Barcelona so we could visit again. Note to travelers: this is a don't-miss.

Another adventure today was traveling back to our hotel via the Metro. So convenient - and cheap! For a mere 2.15 Euros we could wander through the different lines all day long if we wished. However, we were certainly ready for a little sit-down and a small cool drink. Have I mentioned that sangria made with cava (the local version of champagne) has become my new favorite? Filled with ice and wonderful fruit, it's like a mimosa on steroids, and just the thing at the end of a long, warm day, especially when shared with good OLLI friends.

After returning to our room for a brief rest, we ventured out again, crossing the Placa Nova in front of the Cathedral, where the Saturday night sardana was in full swing. Rick Steves characterizes the sardana this way: "Locals of all ages seem to spontaneously appear. For some it's a highly symbolic, politically charged action representing Catalan unity--but for most it's just a fun chance to kick up their heels. Participants gather in circles after putting their things in the center--symbolic of community and sharing (and the ever-present risk of theft). All are welcome, even tourists cursed with two left feet." Need I say that we declined to participate?

There's a band on the Cathedral steps, and the dance is very slow. Steves says, "The rest of Spain mocks this lazy circle dance, but considering what it takes for a culture to survive within another culture's country, it is a stirring display of local pride and patriotism. During the 36 years of Franco dictatorship, the sardana was forbidden."

We are grateful to have seen this dancing in the plaza. Last weekend was the Feast of Corpus Christi, so there was no sardana. We feel lucky!

June 12, 2015 - Art for art's sake

What an extraordinary day this has been! Arleen has brought us from Barcelona's Roman beginnings all the way to the modernisme era - just about a thousand years of history. Finally we have come to the age when art stands alone, serving neither a secular nor a sacred purpose, but simply existing and having value for its own sake.

Nowhere is this principle embodied more forcefully than in the architecture of Antoni Gaudi and his contemporaries. Today we walked from the Plaza de Catalunya at the center of the city up the Passeig de Gracia, a glittery shopping street (Manolo Blahnik, Tiffany, etc., etc.) where much of the Modernista architecture is found. We stood for a good while directly across the street from the Casa Batllo, which is far more impressive than its pictures would lead one to believe. At the same time, it occupies the street rather quietly, modestly overwhelming everything that surrounds it.

A few blocks away we are astounded by the facade of the prize-winning apartment building design of Toyo Ito, which pays homage to Gaudi's Casa Mila across the street.

Casa Mila simply blew me away. As we stood in front of it and listened to Arleen's commentary on the structure and Gaudi's inspiration, the beautiful city of Montserrat and its mountains, we could almost hear the conversation between the Gaudi original and the Ito response. I believe this design and construction has touched me most of all in this adventure, and that wouldn't be possible without the careful layering of instruction from our gifted teacher.

At this point we were instructed to set off on our own until we meet to travel to Valencia on Monday. We have so many things left on our list, and we set right to work.

First, a glimpse inside El Nacional, a former textile mill that has been converted to a restaurant mecca. We agreed that it might be the most beautiful setting for multiple restaurants in the world. My pictures will hardly do it justice!

Then on to lunch, at a small restaurant specializing in Basque tapas.

After lunch, a trip up the escalators of El Corte Ingles, Spain's largest department store, to the ninth floor restaurant/bar/cafeteria where the view of the Plaza de Catalunya is simply spectacular. From this height we could see Montjuic and the sea.

Mike and I decided to do the Las Ramblas walk from Plaza de Catalunya to the Rambla del Flors, which is where we began our walk down Las Ramblas to the sea last week. The difference in the crowd from last week was marked: it had increased by about a factor of ten. We decided that the farther into June we get, the more crowded the city will become. We are very grateful that we arrived on June 3, when there was more room and fewer people! We did take the opportunity on this walk to duck into the famous La Boqueria, the enormous market and major tourist attraction. Never have we seen so much food being photographed, purchased, and eaten by so many people!

Then - back to the hotel for a bit of a rest before venturing out again around 7:00 p.m. to meet friends for dinner. We returned to a favorite plaza, the Placa Reial. Here we dined at mariscCo, a fascinating place that once was a natural history and science workshop. It was a gathering place for artists of the late 19th and early 20th century, and smack in the middle of the current indoor dining room is a life-sized statute of a rhinoceros with Salvador Dali atop. It seems that Dali and his colleagues would visit this workshop and they dissected a number of large animals, including a rhino. Hence the Dali connection!

Luckily this restaurant has beautiful and delicious food in addition to its rather odd theme.

(Above - An early evening view of the Placa Reial. Note lamppost designed very early in his career by Antoni Gaudi.)

We are planning a little later start tomorrow, and hope to spend the day at Montjuic. So far the weather has cooperated - it is sunny and cool, with a breeze. Fingers crossed that it continues!