But backing up a little - we slept in this morning, then set out to take the elevator to the top of the Cathedral. We figured that Saturday morning would be a relatively uncrowded time, and that proved to be true. Five of our group loaded into the lift, at three Euros apiece (a bargain), then climbed a few steps through the scaffolding erected to protect the roof and there we were - above the rooftops, looking towards Montjuic and the sea and Tibidabo immediately behind us. What a beautiful view! I only hope my photos do it justice, as my camera is modest and my photo skills are limited.
Three of us then ventured up to Via Laetana where we caught a cab, complete with friendly driver, to the Miro museum about halfway up the hill of Montjuic. Montjuic, which means "Mount of the Jews," isn't really a mountain, but it's a very large hill overlooking the harbor of Barcelona. Many of Barcelona's iconic architectural masterpieces have been built of stone quarried from Montjuic, from the Cathedral to the Gaudi houses. The Church of Santa Maria del Mar, built by the citizens of the neighborhood, used stone carried by individuals from Montjuic - on their days off from work, which in medieval times were more like just a few hours. Montjuic today is the site of both the beautiful Miro museum, which is quite modern and new, and the National Museum of Catalan Art, which is housed in a beautiful castle.
Montjuic was also the site chosen to be the center of the 1992 Olympics held in Barcelona. Consequently, it is home to Olympic sports venues, and it is quite beautiful. There are fountains and waterfalls flowing from the plaza of the Catalan art museum all the way down to the Plaza Espanya; there are massive steps and columns and gardens and just about every possible enhancement one could imagine that would appeal to an international crowd attending the Olympic Games. Across the boulevard from the Plaza Espanya is the former bullfighting venue of Barcelona, which is now a shopping mall. Catalans have decided that bullfighting is inhumane (and I must agree) and have banned it throughout the region.
The Miro museum was interesting - but the Catalan art museum was absolutely breathtaking. We are very sorry that we didn't begin our day there and stay for many hours. We were able to see only a fraction of the art it holds, and wish we had many more days to spend in Barcelona so we could visit again. Note to travelers: this is a don't-miss.
Another adventure today was traveling back to our hotel via the Metro. So convenient - and cheap! For a mere 2.15 Euros we could wander through the different lines all day long if we wished. However, we were certainly ready for a little sit-down and a small cool drink. Have I mentioned that sangria made with cava (the local version of champagne) has become my new favorite? Filled with ice and wonderful fruit, it's like a mimosa on steroids, and just the thing at the end of a long, warm day, especially when shared with good OLLI friends.
After returning to our room for a brief rest, we ventured out again, crossing the Placa Nova in front of the Cathedral, where the Saturday night sardana was in full swing. Rick Steves characterizes the sardana this way: "Locals of all ages seem to spontaneously appear. For some it's a highly symbolic, politically charged action representing Catalan unity--but for most it's just a fun chance to kick up their heels. Participants gather in circles after putting their things in the center--symbolic of community and sharing (and the ever-present risk of theft). All are welcome, even tourists cursed with two left feet." Need I say that we declined to participate?
There's a band on the Cathedral steps, and the dance is very slow. Steves says, "The rest of Spain mocks this lazy circle dance, but considering what it takes for a culture to survive within another culture's country, it is a stirring display of local pride and patriotism. During the 36 years of Franco dictatorship, the sardana was forbidden."
We are grateful to have seen this dancing in the plaza. Last weekend was the Feast of Corpus Christi, so there was no sardana. We feel lucky!
No comments:
Post a Comment