Today we left Derry and journeyed north, back into the Republic of Ireland through the Inishowen Peninsula to Malin Head, the northernmost point of the Republic. Long a lookout point for the country, Malin Head served as a landmark to pilots in World War II, and Lloyd's of London maintains a tower on the top of the cliff that serves as a weather monitoring station for all of western Europe.
We were blessed with a beautiful day of sunshine and scudding clouds, so the walk up to the top of the cliff was pleasant, although pretty steep. And of course everything was wet; everything is always wet in Ireland. It has either just rained or will rain shortly - but today we had sun for quite a while!
After a good look around and plenty of time for photos, we ventured a mile or so down the hill to Ferren's, the northernmost pub in Ireland. The Ferren family has offered hospitality to the farmers and fishermen who live in Malin (and to the occasional busload of travelers) for over six generations. When we arrived, the mother and son team had Irish coffee, Bailey's and coffee, and Guinness for whoever wanted it, and also coffee, tea, and whiskey. The hubs and I have grown quite used to drinking hot tea in this country that consumes the most tea of any in the world. In from the cold and the wind, very hot tea with milk and sugar (me) or just straight (the hubs) is a lovely experience.
We lingered for a while in the pub - a couple of our travelers even shot a little pool - then hopped back on the bus to return to Derry for lunch and a full afternoon on our own.
This day may well turn out to be my favorite of the trip. Derry is such a fascinating city, with both its ancient and recent history bubbling just beneath the surface. It's very uncrowded; it may be that the Troubles still loom large to many travelers who are a bit hesitant to visit. This is a shame. The city fathers have worked very hard to restore much of the city that was bombed in the last century, and the local folks are friendly and welcoming and have such a lovely way about them.
After a nice lunch at the hotel, the hubs and I ventured out to take the mural walk. Along about a 300-yard stretch of Rossville Street, there are powerful murals painted on the sides and ends of the apartment buildings that crowd this area, known as the Bogside. Outside the original city walls, the Bogside is home to much of the city's Catholic population, and Rossville Street is the site of a great deal of the violence that began in earnest in 1972 and continued until almost the end of the century - those turbulent years of bloodshed and death known to everyone as the Troubles. The murals depict people and events of the bombings, in particular Bloody Sunday. Suffice it to say that it was an illuminating and sobering afternoon, and we were very aware that the peace that exists today is a fragile one, as evidenced by the angry graffiti and many militant signs.
Visiting Derry and seeing so many of its historical sights has been a highlight of this tour. Enhancing our enjoyment was a delicious dinner and a one-man show this evening, called the Spirit of Derry. We were treated to a most entertaining performance by Kiernan McGrath, currently the guiding light behind the Derry Playhouse, and formerly the lead tenor of the group 12 Irish Tenors. Kiernan returned to his birthplace to raise his family, and his love of Derry and his hopes for the future were obvious in his performance. We loved it. What a great end to a most interesting and provocative day!
Tomorrow, the Giant's Causeway and Belfast.
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