This morning Bill delivered his last lecture to us. He spoke of sculpture and the color green. We were to visit the Bargello this afternoon, and it's been his practice all week to prepare us for what we will see in our wanderings.
Class was cut a bit short in order to give us time to visit places we haven't made it to quite yet. Mike and I feasted on salami, cheese, bread, and chips in our room, then set out for the San Marco monastery. It is fascinating. Each monk's cell has its own fresco. The cell reserved for Cosimo Medici (who certainly wasn't a monk, but often came to San Marco for a retreat) is, by the standards of monks, quite elaborate. He had his own chapel!
This beautifully preserved building is home to a display that outlnes the procedure used by the monks to create illuminated manuscripts. Also on display are examples of the books they created. But most compelling is the cell of Savaronola. It contains a painting, a bust, and several of the vestments of the monk. Famous for creating the Bonfire of the Vanities before the people turned against him, Savaronola was burned in the Piazza della Signoria, his remains gathered and burned again, then gathered and burned a third time. The ashes were thrown into the Arno. Needless to say, there is no relic available should anyone wish to commemorate Savaronola!
We walked from the Piazza di San Marco down to the Piazza della Signoria to meet Bill and the group at the Loggia del Lanzi. This vaulted space is home to beautiful Roman sculptures and others that are very familiar: Perseus with the (bloody, severed) head of Medusa; the Rape of the Sabine Women; Hercules slaying the Centaur. Then we went a few blocks down the street to the Bargello, which is Florence's primary sculpture museum. Home to works by Michelangelo, Donatello, and many others, it is simply overwhelming. One could spend days in this beautiful building. Perfectly curated and loaded with information (in English - yay!), this museum is an absolute don't-miss. My favorite is the young Michelangelo's statute of the young David, who looks like a triumphant teenager, ready to brag to his friends!
At this point in the day, I needed a little pick-me-up; in fact, I needed someone to pick me up and carry me! So a small group of us went to a local department store which features a rooftop cafe with a most glorious view. I had a caffee latte, which delivered the necessary jolt, then we journeyed on.
We strolled to the mercato nuovo and shopped for a bit, then wandered back to the Piazza di Repubblica, where a young woman was singing and the carousel was full of children. Making our way to the Duomo, we passed a procession of Hare Krishnas, and followed a bride and groom to the front steps of the church.
Mike, Carolyn and I simply stood there and soaked it in. The sun on the Campanile and the dome of the church, the blue sky, the cool breeze, the throngs of tourists, the street vendors, the pigeons - how can we bear to leave this magical place?
We are so comfortable here now, after having been here over a week - and we have so few days remaining. We are heading out to dinner tonight to one of our favorite spots, then to bed! Tomorrow will be another beautiful day in Firenze.
Friday, June 20, 2014
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment