We are under the spell of Firenze

It's Sunday today, Father's Day. First, Happy Father's Day to my sweet daddy and to my wonderful son, both great dads.

Next, Florence is a happy place today - Italy won their World Cup match last night. Our waiter (who has now become our favorite) assured us that no one would be out today had they lost. (Reminded us of Tallahasseans on some very sad football Sundays.)

We had a quiet dinner last evening with another couple. Everyone in our group seemed to be in sore need of a regrouping day, and today was it. We slept late, made it to breakfast before it closed, then took our time with showers and dressing. I decided that laundry can wait for a couple of days, then sat down to figure out what we've seen, what we want to see, and which days will be for what.

In my reading of "Under the Tuscan Sun," I've been struck by Mayes' frequent musings on how her inborn Southern sense of place seems so appropriate here in Tuscany. The Fiorentinos are so sweet and calm, so courteous and helpful. There is a sense of security and peace in the city, even with the throngs of tourists. As we left our restaurant today, George (our guy) hugged all four of us, even the men. And interestingly, after having been in something of a whirlwind for the past few days, getting a concentrated introduction to churches, museums, architecture, piazzas, indoor and outdoor sculpture, on and on and on, I believe we are familiar with the area and ready to strike out on our own.

SO - I sat on the bed, pulled out the guidebooks and maps and the wonderful lists that Bill has made for us (almost like scavenger hunts, "Make sure you taste this gelato, peek into that paper shop, haggle in this market"), and I plotted a broad course. As soon as we were ready, we ventured forth.

The first gift of the day was the weather. It was lovely and cool, with a breeze. No need for sunglasses; it was overcast. What a nice break from the heat!

Only a few doors down from our hotel is the Medici Palace. Quite plain from the outside, the palace is a marvel of design and color inside. The palace is owned by the City of Florence and has many offices and meeting rooms on the upper floors. In some instances the rooms on the lower floors have been preserved as they were designed in the 16th century. The frescoed ceilings and ornate walls are breathtaking. There is even one bedroom that was restored in the 19th century, when Florence was the capital of Italy, and the furnishings are distinctly Victorian! In this ancient city, that is downright brand new.

Other rooms are used as modern art exhibition space. One can step from an Italian Renaissance salon into a spare white space with surrealist paintings. Beautifully curated and lighted, these galleries are refreshing, but startling, and definitely unexpected.

In the center of the palace is a beautiful garden space, filled with sculpture. A few drops of rain fell as we wandered and snapped pictures. This is truly a hidden treasure just a few steps from the busy modern street.

After a lovely lunch in our favorite restaurant and a little visit with George the Waiter, we headed for the Accademia. This is where the Michelangelo "David" is housed. It's a small museum, but the space that the famous sculpture occupies is soaring and dramatic. The statue itself is more than a visit - it is a not-to-be-missed experience. We walked around, we read the commentary, we took photos, and we still weren't sure how to take it all in.

The Accademia is still a working institute of art instruction, and there is evidence everywhere of its commitment to education. One whole room is filled with all kinds of pieces and parts and miscellaneous sculptures, marked with black dots called pimples, which designate the areas that are used as teaching tools.

One floor up, there is a wealth of very, very old church art. Altar pieces, polyptychs, tapestries - all kinds of iconography are assembled here. Bill has helped us see symbols that we wouldn't have noticed before. Our appreciation of art has improved by leaps and bounds!

What a day! And how many layers have been added to our sense of this place. Every experience shapes our perceptions of Florence and further convinces us that we'll never visit another city quite like this one.