June 15, 2015 - Valencia!

[As I write this, it is early morning June 16. I began last evening, but was so tired I had to promise myself to finish today before breakfast!]

Today [June 15] our group boarded a bus for a long, but comfortable, ride to Valencia. We arrived at the building that houses the permanent site of the FSU Study Abroad Program in Spain. What a lovely historic site! The building enfolds a part of a Roman tower and wall from the 3rd or 4th century. The director of the FSU program, Dr. Ignacio Messana, gave us an overview of the program, the building, the students, and the program's mission. (Current students were in the midst of final exams and presentations, so, alas, we were unable to go downstairs to see the lower ruins.) We loved making this FSU connection, and were so proud to hear comments from shopkeepers in the immediate area who praised our young folks for their demeanor and enthusiasm. Dr. Messana noted that the FSU's international program, which maintains four permanent sites and many more locales, is generally ranked in the top five in the U.S. - go Noles!

After this "campus" visit, we set out to walk in the area. Arleen took us first to the Torres Serranos (Towers of the Mountains), which have stood as sentinels of the city for a thousand years, then into the placa of El Micatel, a bell tower attached to the Valencia cathedral.

After taking a brief lunch break, we crossed the busy street to gaze into a most impressive park - a dry riverbed that has been dedicated as public space by the city of Valencia, which winds through the city to the Mediterranean. Faced with the necessity to re-route the Turia River as a flood control measure, the city and its citizens created this most beautiful space. From the pedestrian bridge we could see soccer fields and long expanses of grass and trees. Dr. Messana had told us that this park compares to both Central Park in New York and Hyde Park in London in size. And we had only just begun to experience its attractions!

Back on the bus, we proceeded to drive along the length of the park (former river) to an area called the City of Arts and Sciences (Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciencies). The buildings that occupy the riverbed are almost impossible to describe. Designed by Santiago Calatrava, the buildings swoop and soar (seemingly) and overwhelm the visitor with their size and grace. My poor camera could hardly do this area justice! We have been so fortunate on this trip to learn about architecture in Spain that spans thousands of years - and the City of Arts and Sciences was the icing on the cake,

After a lengthy bus ride back to Barcelona, we stopped at our favorite tapas place, had a quick bite and are heading for bed. Tomorrow is our last day in this magical place, and we're going to make the most of it! We will finish our studies with a tour of the Sagrada Familia - and figure out one last special treat.

June 14, 2015 - The Aquarium, the Arc de Triomf, and general wandering

Just as we discovered last summer in Florence, as we near the conclusion of our visit we feel more and more comfortable moving about the city. Barcelona is quite large, but really very walkable. And we've finally figured out the map! It helps to have been immersed to some extent in the language so we can actually read the signs now.

This morning we set out at a leisurely pace to walk down the Via Laietana to the sea. Sunday mornings have their own particular feel in most places we've visited, and this one is no exception. The pace is a little slower, there are many more children and large family groups enjoying the small pocket parks, and Port Vell, the old port which is now a major tourist haven, was filled with (from the sounds of the conversations) locals.

The area surrounding the Aquarium, the IMAX theater, a huge shopping mall, and a number of bars and restaurants is tidy and very pedestrian-friendly. Lengthy boardwalks made of a very forgiving surface slope upward gently, then down again. The marina is filled with beautiful sailboats and yachts and other watercraft. The sky is a deep blue; there is a cool breeze. In the near distance we can see Montjuic clearly.

Inside the Aquarium, we quickly decided that maybe Sunday wasn't the best day for this visit. There were children everywhere! It is a most kid-friendly venue, with great touch-tanks, an almost life-sized wooden submarine that's open for exploration, climbing opportunities, and an outdoor terrace playground. Our grands would have loved this place! Wish we could have made them appear by magic ....

After our Aquarium tour and little bit of shopping in the gift shop (couldn't resist) we strolled outside to an lovely outdoor restaurant/bar and had a little lunch. How pleasant to sit outside and enjoy the sights and sounds and not have to be anywhere in particular!

After lunch and a quick look around the marina (we have pictures of one boat that is just unbelievable, can't wait to get home and post it), we set out to walk up to the Arc de Triomf. I must admit that neither of us had known that such a structure existed in Barcelona - but it does. Built in 1888 for the World Exposition, it is larger than Paris's Arc de Triomphe, constructed of red brick with friezes on all four sides, and faces with its back to the city and its front to the sea. It's quite beautiful, as is the park in which it stands, and, interestingly, the space was quite uncrowded. I suspect this might not be a huge venue for visitors, but it's well worth a look.

Now to our wandering: Since we had a pretty good feel for the general direction of the Cathedral and our home base, we simply began walking that way. So much fun to take the narrow streets and discover the small placas filled with neighbors having lunch at a cafe or simply having a coffee and talking. It's Sunday, remember? We even found a little organic tea shop that advertises iced tea! Without sugar! Hurrah!

Eventually we ran into the Via Laietana again, and from there easily found our way back to the Placa Nova and the Cathedral. Today there is a jazz trio set up and playing, a small antiques/flea market, and many Sunday afternoon strollers moving around in front of the church. We have returned to our room for a brief rest - then we'll venture out again!

*

Back in the room after a tiny bit of shopping and a wonderful dinner with friends, followed by what I swear will be my last gelat. This delicious ice cream, which owes everything to the Italian gelato (hence the name), is so tempting. I'm particularly partial to the dark chocolate ....

Tomorrow, we visit the beautiful Spanish city of Valencia, home to one of FSU's study abroad programs. We're looking forward to a tour of the FSU site and also to a look around this city. We'll be up early and home late, as we're doing this trip by bus. There's a distinct possibility that tomorrow evening's blog will be considerably foreshortened! 

June 13, 2015 - Montjuic

I have figured something out - the FIRST place to go in Barcelona is Montjuic. We have gone about this a little backwards. What an amazing place!

But backing up a little - we slept in this morning, then set out to take the elevator to the top of the Cathedral. We figured that Saturday morning would be a relatively uncrowded time, and that proved to be true. Five of our group loaded into the lift, at three Euros apiece (a bargain), then climbed a few steps through the scaffolding erected to protect the roof and there we were - above the rooftops, looking towards Montjuic and the sea and Tibidabo immediately behind us. What a beautiful view! I only hope my photos do it justice, as my camera is modest and my photo skills are limited.

Three of us then ventured up to Via Laetana where we caught a cab, complete with friendly driver, to the Miro museum about halfway up the hill of Montjuic. Montjuic, which means "Mount of the Jews," isn't really a mountain, but it's a very large hill overlooking the harbor of Barcelona. Many of Barcelona's iconic architectural masterpieces have been built of stone quarried from Montjuic, from the Cathedral to the Gaudi houses. The Church of Santa Maria del Mar, built by the citizens of the neighborhood, used stone carried by individuals from Montjuic - on their days off from work, which in medieval times were more like just a few hours. Montjuic today is the site of both the beautiful Miro museum, which is quite modern and new, and the National Museum of Catalan Art, which is housed in a beautiful castle.

Montjuic was also the site chosen to be the center of the 1992 Olympics held in Barcelona. Consequently, it is home to Olympic sports venues, and it is quite beautiful. There are fountains and waterfalls flowing from the plaza of the Catalan art museum all the way down to the Plaza Espanya; there are massive steps and columns and gardens and just about every possible enhancement one could imagine that would appeal to an international crowd attending the Olympic Games. Across the boulevard from the Plaza Espanya is the former bullfighting venue of Barcelona, which is now a shopping mall. Catalans have decided that bullfighting is inhumane (and I must agree) and have banned it throughout the region.

The Miro museum was interesting - but the Catalan art museum was absolutely breathtaking. We are very sorry that we didn't begin our day there and stay for many hours. We were able to see only a fraction of the art it holds, and wish we had many more days to spend in Barcelona so we could visit again. Note to travelers: this is a don't-miss.

Another adventure today was traveling back to our hotel via the Metro. So convenient - and cheap! For a mere 2.15 Euros we could wander through the different lines all day long if we wished. However, we were certainly ready for a little sit-down and a small cool drink. Have I mentioned that sangria made with cava (the local version of champagne) has become my new favorite? Filled with ice and wonderful fruit, it's like a mimosa on steroids, and just the thing at the end of a long, warm day, especially when shared with good OLLI friends.

After returning to our room for a brief rest, we ventured out again, crossing the Placa Nova in front of the Cathedral, where the Saturday night sardana was in full swing. Rick Steves characterizes the sardana this way: "Locals of all ages seem to spontaneously appear. For some it's a highly symbolic, politically charged action representing Catalan unity--but for most it's just a fun chance to kick up their heels. Participants gather in circles after putting their things in the center--symbolic of community and sharing (and the ever-present risk of theft). All are welcome, even tourists cursed with two left feet." Need I say that we declined to participate?

There's a band on the Cathedral steps, and the dance is very slow. Steves says, "The rest of Spain mocks this lazy circle dance, but considering what it takes for a culture to survive within another culture's country, it is a stirring display of local pride and patriotism. During the 36 years of Franco dictatorship, the sardana was forbidden."

We are grateful to have seen this dancing in the plaza. Last weekend was the Feast of Corpus Christi, so there was no sardana. We feel lucky!